Montemayor

A hilltop above the Campiña

The church bells strike eight just as the path reaches the top of the castle. April wind moves through the cereal fields, which stretch as far as the eye can see. The green shifts with each gust, soft at first, then brighter, then almost pale before settling again. From this high point in the Campiña Sur, Montemayor makes immediate sense: a town set on a rise, surrounded by olive groves and farmland that seem to go on without end.

The position explains much of what follows. Views dominate, but so does a certain pace. Everything feels tied to the land below, and to the seasons that shape it.

The scent of turned earth

Morning arrives slowly. Two farmers cross the street in work coats, talking about the price of olive oil as they head out towards the fields. The air carries the smell of damp soil. It rained the night before, just enough to settle the dust. There is also the scent of wild plants growing between the stones of the old walls.

In the main square, a man drags tables outside. Chairs scrape across the stone and the sound echoes between whitewashed houses. Few visitors are around at this hour. Most people here know each other, greeting one another by name, stopping to exchange a few words about how the olive harvest might turn out this year. This spring, the flowering came a little earlier than usual. If the weather holds, expectations are good.

Conversation returns again and again to the countryside. It has the same easy place in daily life that football holds elsewhere.

Two castles, two viewpoints

From the road, the Castillo de Montemayor appears larger than it feels up close. Its strength lies less in size than in position. The hill turns it into a natural lookout over the surrounding landscape. The stone still holds a trace of warmth from the previous day when touched by hand. Inside, a small interpretive space focuses on the medieval period, with panels explaining the strategic importance of the hill and the different occupations of the fortress over time.

The view is what keeps attention here. A road winds down towards Córdoba. Other towns appear as small white patches scattered among fields. The wheat shows a bright, almost lemon green that lasts only a short time before turning gold.

A short walk away stands the Torre de la Reina. It is slimmer, more isolated, and rises cleanly against the sky. The spiral staircase narrows in places, forcing a slight stoop. At the top, the wind is almost constant. A passer-by mentions that on very clear days it is said you can see far into the distance, even towards the south. Today, a light haze softens the horizon and bathes everything in a warm, golden tone.

Food that stays close to home

Around midday, the town shifts with the smell coming from kitchens. Salmorejo montemayoreño is often thicker than the version found in Córdoba city. Many prepare it with plenty of day-old bread, giving it a dense, almost creamy consistency. The flavour of tomato stands out, the olive oil comes from the groves that surround the municipality, and the ham is tender enough to need little effort with a knife.

In one home, a rabo de toro cooks slowly in the oven with local wine.

Food here follows what is nearby rather than novelty. Kitchen gardens, olive groves and wineries visible from the castle hill all feed into what appears on the table. During the August fair, many families still bring tables out into the street or gather with neighbours to share dishes. The atmosphere leans towards a large village get-together rather than something designed for outsiders.

Days of celebration

Spring visits often lead to talk of the romería de San Isidro, usually held in May. The day begins early as carts set off towards the cerro de la Dehesa. Folding chairs are tied to trailers alongside cooking pots and cool boxes. Much of the route remains unpaved, so dust rises slowly behind the procession.

At the end of August, the Virgen de la Sierra comes down to the town. This is one of the moments when Montemayor fills again with people who live elsewhere during the year. Balconies are draped with white cloths, and the fairground stays lively late into the night. When the image enters the town, rockets announce its arrival from afar. The following day, it returns to the sanctuary, accompanied by band music and traditional fair dress that catches the strong late-summer light.

When to go and how to take it in

Spring and early autumn tend to be the most comfortable times to walk up to the hill and move through the old centre. Summer heat builds quickly here, especially from midday onwards. Early morning or late afternoon suits a visit to the castle better, with water and suitable footwear. The slopes can be steeper than they first appear.

Montemayor does not lend itself to rushing. Time passes more easily on a bench in the square, listening to the bells, or watching how the light changes over the fields of the Campiña as the day comes to a close.