Linares

The morning sun catches the wrought-iron balconies of Calle Ancha, and somewhere between the 17th-century mansion and the converted mining warehouse, a guitarist practices scales. This is Linares at 419 metres above sea level, where the Sierra Morena foothills meet a sea of olive groves, and where Spain's most famous classical guitarist first learned to shape sound from wood and strings.

From Lead to Legacy

The ground beneath Linares still remembers its former life. Between 1849 and 1991, this was Europe's lead capital, a place where Victorian engineers arrived with new technologies and left behind a skyline of brick chimneys and steel headframes. Today, those mining towers stand like exclamation marks across the landscape, particularly visible from the road approaching from Jaén. The Minas de La Cruz preserve some of this infrastructure, though access varies seasonally – worth checking with the tourist office opposite the theatre on Plaza de Ayuntamiento before making the 3-kilometre journey.

The transformation from industrial powerhouse to provincial town hasn't been seamless. Unemployment still hovers around 20%, and the grand architecture of the mining boom now houses discount shops and empty apartments. Yet this very authenticity draws visitors seeking something beyond Andalucía's polished tourist circuit. British travellers on extended stays particularly appreciate the absence of souvenir stalls and the presence of actual local life.

Walking Through Layers of History

Start at the Hospital de los Marqueses de Linares, where baroque stone hides the town's archaeological museum. The building itself tells a story – begun in 1674 as a plague hospital, converted to a noble residence, now displaying Iberian pottery unearthed from the nearby Roman city of Cástulo. Entry costs €3, and the quiet galleries reveal how this crossroads settlement has been strategically important since 3,000 BC.

Five minutes north, the Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor dominates the skyline with its Mudejar tower, a architectural marriage of Christian and Islamic styles that characterises much of Jaén province. Inside, the Gothic-Renaissance interior houses a 16th-century altarpiece considered among the finest in eastern Andalucía. The church opens 10:00-13:00 and 17:00-19:00 daily, though afternoon visits can be thwarted by the Spanish preference for lengthy lunch breaks.

The Paseo de Linarejos provides orientation and shade in equal measure. This 19th-century promenade, designed for mining engineers and their families, now serves as the town's living room. Morning dog walkers, afternoon card players, and evening promenaders create a daily rhythm that visitors can join simply by walking slowly and nodding greetings.

Beyond the Town Limits

Seven kilometres south lies Cástulo, the archaeological site that predates Linares by several millennia. The Iberian-Roman city, strategically positioned above the Guadalquivir valley, produced the remarkable mosaic of the Amores now displayed in Linares' monographic museum. Weekend guided tours (€8, book at the museum) reveal ongoing excavations – archaeologists uncovered a new section of the city walls just last summer. The site lacks the visitor infrastructure of better-known Roman ruins, which means you might find yourself alone with 2,000-year-old stones, save for the occasional shepherd and his dogs.

For walking without historical commentary, the olive groves surrounding Linares offer marked paths of 5-12 kilometres. Spring brings wildflowers and temperatures around 22°C, perfect for half-day hikes. The Ruta de la Sierra climbs gently through Mediterranean woodland to viewpoints where the agricultural geometry of Jaén province spreads below like a green and silver chessboard.

Food, Drink and the Spanish Schedule

British visitors often struggle with Linares' dining timetable. Lunch service ends at 16:00 precisely, and restaurants don't reopen until 20:30 at earliest. The solution? Embrace the Spanish breakfast. Café Central on Plaza de Ayuntamiento serves excellent coffee and tostada from 07:30, while the Thursday morning market (08:00-14:00) offers picnic supplies – local cheese, cured ham, and the region's exceptional olive oil.

For proper meals, Arrieros on Calle Cristo provides the most reliable option for visitors, with English menus available and a €12 set lunch featuring local specialities. Try the pipirrana minero, a miner's salad of tomato, pepper and tuna that refreshes during summer heat. Perolo – potatoes with sweet red pepper – appears on most menus and provides gentle introduction to Andalusian flavours without challenging British palates.

Vegetarians face limited options, though most bars will prepare espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) on request. The locally-made himilces – honey and almond pastries – work brilliantly with afternoon coffee, particularly at Pastelería Roldán where nuns' recipes meet modern techniques.

Music and Memory

Late June brings the Festival Internacional de Guitarra Andrés Segovia, when Linares temporarily swells with classical guitar enthusiasts. Free concerts in the Parque de Linarejos mix with ticketed performances in the theatre, creating an atmosphere where world-class musicians mingle with locals in bar terraces. The Museo Andrés Segovia, housed in the guitarist's childhood home, opens extended hours during the festival, displaying his personal instruments and correspondence with composers including Britten and Tippett.

The museum, like much of Linares, operates on reduced hours outside festival periods. Tuesday to Saturday, 10:00-14:00 only. The €2 entry fee includes an audio guide in English that explains how Segovia's technique revolutionised classical guitar, transforming it from folk instrument to concert hall staple.

Practical Realities

Linares works best as a base rather than a destination. The train station at Linares-Baeza (5 kilometres from town centre) connects to Madrid in 2 hours 45 minutes via AVE, making weekend visits feasible. Car hire essential for exploring – the town's bus service reduces to skeletal frequency after 21:00.

Summer temperatures reach 36°C in July and August, when the sensible schedule involves morning exploration, afternoon siesta, and evening activities from 20:00 onwards. Spring and autumn provide ideal conditions, with daytime temperatures around 25°C and minimal rainfall.

Accommodation options remain limited. The Hotel Aníbal offers reliable three-star comfort from €65 nightly, while rural villas outside town provide pools essential for August visits – British families particularly rate the converted farmhouses towards Despeñaperros, though these require transport.

The Honest Verdict

Linares won't suit everyone. Nightlife ends at midnight, shopping options beyond basic necessities require travel to Jaén or Úbeda, and the town's industrial heritage means architectural beauty mixes with functional ugliness. Yet for travellers seeking authentic Andalusian life beyond the Costa del Sol template, it offers something increasingly rare: a place where tourism supplements rather than defines local economy.

Come with realistic expectations and a hire car. Stay three nights, not seven. Visit Cástulo in morning cool, explore the museums during siesta hours, and spend evenings learning why the Spanish invented the verb sobremesa – the art of conversation after dinner. You might leave understanding why some British visitors, initially planning overnight stops, find themselves returning year after year to this unassuming town where history, music and daily life continue their long, intertwined dance.