Benatae

Early in the morning, when the sun still slips low between holm oaks and olive trees, the countryside around Benatae carries the scent of cool earth and last night’s extinguished firewood. The stillness does not last long. A dog barks somewhere in the distance, a car passes slowly along the road that climbs towards the village, then calm settles again. Tourism in Benatae is anything but busy. Just over four hundred people live here, and the pace follows that of a small village in the Sierra de Segura.

The village itself sits on a gentle rise, surrounded by old olive groves and patches of pine forest. Streets slope up and down, sometimes quite steeply, narrowing in places between whitewashed houses with curved roof tiles that catch the light in a muted way typical of mountain villages when the sun falls at an angle. By mid-morning, cats tend to appear along the edges of warm pavements, and there is hardly any traffic. The most constant sounds are a door opening or the brief echo of conversation drifting across the street.

Around the church and the square

Life in Benatae revolves around the parish church of the Inmaculada Concepción. It is not a grand or imposing building. Its appearance is restrained, with stone walls and a quiet presence in the square. From here, some of the best views open out across nearby hillsides, covered in pines and olive trees whose colours shift noticeably with the seasons.

In spring, the greens become brighter after the rains. By autumn, the landscape turns drier in tone, with reddish soil showing through between the trees. On clear days, as evening approaches, the light falls low across the valley and everything takes on a golden hue for a few fleeting minutes.

Walking beyond the village

The natural surroundings define this place more than anything else. As soon as you leave the built-up area, you come across agricultural tracks, forest paths and trails that climb towards the nearby mountains of the Sierra de Segura.

Not all of these routes are signposted. Some locals speak of paths that cross old olive groves, where very ancient trees stand with thick, twisted trunks that look almost like dark sculptures against the pale ground. If you plan to walk here, it is sensible to carry a map or GPS and ask in advance about the condition of the paths, as some sections change with rainfall or farming activity.

Early morning and late afternoon are when the landscape shows the most variation in light and colour. These are also the times when birds are most often seen gliding above the ravines.

Food from the surrounding land

Olive oil from the region shapes almost everything prepared in local kitchens. At certain times of year, simple dishes appear that have long been part of life in the sierra: gachas, which are a traditional savoury dish made from flour, hearty stews, and lamb from the Segureña breed, often prepared during family gatherings or traditional slaughtering seasons.

It is not elaborate cooking. These are meals built around the pot, bread for dipping, and ingredients that come from nearby fields and hills.

Festive moments through the year

In December, the village celebrates its patronal festivities in honour of the Inmaculada Concepción, with processions that move through the streets. In May, the Cruces de Mayo appear in different corners, decorated with flowers as part of a tradition seen across parts of southern Spain.

August brings a noticeable change. Many residents who live elsewhere return during these weeks, and the village fills more than usual. Children run through the square, families gather for long meals, and conversations stretch late into the night. For the rest of the year, the atmosphere returns to a much quieter rhythm.

Getting there and practical notes

From the city of Jaén, the usual route is to head towards the Sierra de Segura region by road, continuing in the direction of the Villacarrillo area before turning further into the mountains. The final stretch runs between olive groves and low scrubland.

Within the village, streets can be steep and sometimes cobbled, so comfortable footwear is worth having if you plan to walk around or head out onto nearby paths. Services are limited, and some shops keep variable opening times, which is typical in small municipalities. It is something to keep in mind, especially outside the summer months.

Benatae is one of those places where time seems to move a little more slowly. Nothing dramatic happens. The light changes through the day, wind passes through the pines, and the village continues with its routines. For many, that is exactly the point.