Somontín

The morning sun catches the white walls of Somontín at an angle that makes the entire village appear to glow from within. At 830 metres above the Almanzora Valley, this mountain settlement doesn't so much sit on the landscape as hover above it, with views stretching across to Sierra Nevada's snow-capped peaks on clear days. It's the sort of sight that makes drivers pull over on the AL-8403, though they'd be wise to choose their spot carefully—the mountain road demands attention.

With barely 500 residents, Somontín represents a particular kind of Spanish village that's becoming increasingly rare. This isn't a place that's reinvented itself for visitors. There's no boutique hotel occupying the old convent, no trendy tapas bar serving deconstructed gazpacho. Instead, you'll find a village that functions much as it has for decades, where the baker knows everyone's name and the evening paseo still dictates the day's rhythm.

The Architecture of Everyday Life

The village's Moorish past reveals itself in the labyrinthine layout of its historic centre. Streets narrow to little more than shoulder-width in places, following the mountain's contours with a logic that predates modern planning. Houses crowd together, their white walls reflecting heat in summer and their thick stone construction providing insulation during winter months when temperatures can drop surprisingly low.

The Iglesia Parroquial de San Roque stands at the village's heart, its eighteenth-century baroque interior containing religious artefacts that deserve more attention than they typically receive. The church doors open for services rather than tourist visits, which means timing your arrival requires either luck or local knowledge. When accessible, the retablo's carved figures and gilded details offer insight into the craftsmanship that arrived in remote mountain villages during Spain's colonial period.

Wander beyond the church and you'll discover the village's water heritage. Ancient mills dot the nearby ravines, their stone structures gradually being reclaimed by vegetation. The sendero de los molinos provides a gentle walking route that connects several of these buildings, though you'll need sturdy footwear—the paths, while marked, maintain their original uneven surfaces. These mills once ground the wheat grown on terraced slopes above the village, part of a self-sufficient system that defined mountain life for centuries.

Mountain Living, Andalusian Style

Somontín's altitude creates a climate that surprises many visitors expecting typical southern Spanish weather. Summer temperatures remain several degrees cooler than the coast, making walking feasible even in July and August. Winter, however, brings a different story. When storms sweep across the Filabres, the village can find itself temporarily cut off, its single access road rendered impassable by snow or fallen rock. Local residents stock up accordingly, and visitors during winter months should check weather forecasts with particular care.

The surrounding Sierra de los Filabres offers walking opportunities that range from gentle strolls to proper mountain hikes. Pine forests interspersed with holm oak provide habitat for birds of prey—golden eagles and peregrine falcons are regularly spotted by those patient enough to scan the thermals rising from the valley below. Spring brings wildflowers to the lower slopes, while autumn colours the higher reaches with bronze and gold.

For cyclists, the area presents both opportunity and challenge. The mountain roads reward effort with spectacular views, though the climbs require genuine fitness. Electric bikes have become increasingly popular, allowing less athletic visitors to explore the network of farm tracks leading to abandoned cortijos (farmhouses) and ancient terraces that once supported almond and olive cultivation.

Food Without Fanfare

The village's culinary offerings reflect its mountain location and agricultural heritage. This is food designed to fuel physical labour, not impress food critics. Migas—fried breadcrumbs with garlic and pork—appears on every menu, as does choto (young goat) stewed with local herbs. Gurullos, a type of hand-rolled pasta served with rabbit, represents the village's version of comfort food.

Don't expect sophisticated presentation or extensive wine lists. The bar-restaurant opposite the church serves lunch from 2pm until the food runs out, which during busy periods might mean 3:30pm. Dinner service starts late, as per Spanish custom, though in winter months you might find kitchens closing earlier than coastal establishments. Prices remain refreshingly reasonable—a three-course lunch with wine typically costs under €15.

The village bakery produces bread using traditional methods, firing its ovens in the early hours each morning. By 9am, locals have collected their daily ration, though visitors can usually purchase a loaf if they arrive before noon. The bread's dense texture and thick crust reflect its origins as sustenance for agricultural workers who needed sustenance that would last throughout long working days.

When the Village Comes Alive

August transforms Somontín completely. The fiestas patronales honouring San Roque bring expatriate families back from Barcelona and Madrid, swelling the population temporarily to several times its normal size. Streets echo with music until dawn, and the village square hosts dancing that continues despite the summer heat. Accommodation becomes impossible to find without advance booking, and those seeking the village's usual tranquillity should choose different dates.

December offers a different kind of celebration. The matanza del cerdo (pig slaughter) occurs communally, with families sharing both labour and meat. Traditional methods persist—nothing goes to waste, from blood sausage to crispy crackling. The event might seem medieval to urban sensibilities, but it represents sustainable food production at its most basic level.

Spring brings the romería de la Virgen de los Desamparados, when villagers process to a nearby shrine for a day of communal eating and socialising. Visitors are welcome, though participation requires more discretion than enthusiasm. This remains a local event rather than tourist entertainment, and observing quietly proves more appropriate than attempting full involvement.

Getting There, Staying There

Reaching Somontín requires commitment. Almería city lies 90 kilometres distant, with the final 30 kilometres involving mountain roads that demand concentration. Car rental provides the only practical option—public transport reaches the valley below, but connections to the village itself prove infrequent and unreliable. The journey takes approximately 90 minutes from the airport, longer if you stop for photographs (and you will).

Accommodation options remain limited. Two village houses offer rooms to rent, booked primarily through word-of-mouth rather than online platforms. A casa rural on the village outskirts provides self-catering facilities for four, though availability during festival periods requires booking months ahead. Many visitors base themselves in the valley towns of Olula del Río or Albox, making day trips to Somontín part of a wider exploration of the Almanzora region.

The village makes no concessions to mass tourism, and therein lies its appeal. Somontín offers something increasingly precious—a glimpse of Spanish mountain life that hasn't been packaged for external consumption. Come prepared for the altitude, respect the rhythms of local life, and bring walking boots. The village will provide everything else, including an understanding of why some places resist change, and why that's exactly as it should be.