Icod de los Vinos

First things first: getting around the centre

Tourism in Icod de los Vinos begins with a simple issue: where to leave the car. The centre is made up of narrow streets and a fair amount of slope, so driving too far in can mean awkward manoeuvres later. It is usually easiest to park near Plaza de La Pila and continue on foot.

Arriving early makes a noticeable difference. The area around the town’s main attraction is calmer in the morning, while later on it tends to fill up and slow down.

The tree that draws the crowds

The Drago Milenario is the reason many people make the trip here. It sits inside a park with an entrance ticket, and the space around it is kept tidy and controlled. The tree itself looks well cared for.

That said, it is not completely hidden from view. You can catch sight of it from several points in the town and even from the road towards Garachico. For some visitors, that glimpse is enough.

Whether it is worth going inside depends on your interest. Those curious about dragon trees and botany will likely get more out of the visit. If all you want is a quick photo, seeing it from outside may do the job.

The tree’s reddish sap, known as sangre de drago, was used for centuries in medicine and varnishes. Today the Drago Milenario is protected, and it is strictly hands-off.

Beneath the surface: Cueva del Viento

On the outskirts of town lies the Cueva del Viento, a long volcanic tube and one of the largest of its kind known in Europe. Visits are guided and only cover part of the system.

This is not a cave of bright formations or dramatic colours. What you find here is solidified lava, dark passages and rough walls. Its appeal is more geological than visual.

For those interested in how the island was formed, it makes sense to go. It helps piece together the volcanic processes that shaped Tenerife. Anyone expecting a visually striking cave experience may find it underwhelming.

San Marcos: the town’s beach

A few minutes’ drive away sits Playa de San Marcos. It is a small, enclosed bay with black sand, fairly sheltered in shape. When the sea is calm, swimming is straightforward. When the swell comes in, conditions change quickly.

The setting is practical rather than scenic. Houses climb the hillside, the road runs close by, and space is limited. It is not the sort of beach people travel across the island to see.

Instead, it works as a local beach. Residents head down for a swim and then go back home. It has that everyday feel rather than anything designed for show.

Wine, sweets and a noisy celebration

The name Icod de los Vinos is not accidental. In this part of northern Tenerife, wine has been present for centuries and local production is still widely consumed. In bars, ordering a glass is often as simple as asking, without much ceremony.

In local bakeries, two traditional sweets stand out. Bienmesabe, made primarily from almonds, and quesadillas icodenses, which here take the form of small sweet pastries filled with curd cheese.

Towards the end of autumn, one of the town’s best-known celebrations takes place: the Tablas de San Andrés. Locals, including plenty of younger participants, slide down a steep street in the centre on wooden boards. The day comes with new wine, chestnuts and a fair amount of noise. It is not a day for driving, as the car quickly becomes more of a hindrance than a help.

A short wander through the historic centre

The historic centre can be covered fairly quickly. The Iglesia de San Marcos houses a large silver crucifix that is well known across the island. Around Plaza de La Pila, several old manor houses remain. They are pleasant to see, though they are unlikely to define the whole visit.

If there is time to spare, walking up the streets towards El Amparo adds a different perspective. Some sections still have old cobbled paving, and there are good views over the valley.

A clear takeaway: Icod de los Vinos does not demand a full day. Half a morning is usually enough. It is often combined with a stop in Garachico or with viewpoints in the Isla Baja before continuing the journey. If possible, arrive early. Later on, the centre tends to slow down noticeably.