Montealegre del Castillo

A Castle Between Two Winds

Tourism in Montealegre del Castillo carries a sense of surprise. The sort that comes when you are driving along a quiet road and, without warning, something rises ahead that does not quite fit the landscape. The name is said to come from “monte alegre”, a cheerful hill, a reference to the way the vast plains of La Mancha open out from here, stretching like a sea of wheat in season.

The castle stands at a point where the wind seems to make up its mind. It can blow in from Levante or sweep across from La Mancha. One day people sit in the village roundabout in short sleeves, the next a sharp gust has everyone reaching for a jacket. That shifting air is part of the place.

Approaching from the road to Almansa, the Castillo de Montealegre del Castillo appears suddenly. This is not a fortress tucked discreetly among hills. It rises above the town with complete confidence. The drive up feels light enough, but once at the top the reason for its location becomes obvious. From here, much of the surrounding comarca lies in view.

Inside there is a mixture of surviving walls, traces of former rooms and a cistern that still collects water when the rain falls heavily. The castle was restored relatively recently, although it retains a balance between ruin and reconstruction that makes it easier to picture what once stood here.

Visitors often see the castle as the undisputed centrepiece. For many locals, it forms part of the everyday backdrop. It has always been there, a fixed point against the shifting wind.

Cerro de los Santos and an Iberian Past

A couple of kilometres from the village stands the Cerro de los Santos. The change in landscape is subtle but noticeable. The open plain gives way to low Manchegan scrub, and the silence feels weightier than the breeze.

This hill was once an important Iberian sanctuary. At the end of the nineteenth century, hundreds of stone sculptures were discovered here. Today they are dispersed among various museums. The scene is easy to imagine: more than two thousand years ago, people climbing the hill to leave carved offerings in stone.

One story circulates widely in Montealegre. According to local accounts, one of the pieces stolen at the beginning of the twentieth century ended up in France and surfaced in artistic circles linked to Apollinaire and Picasso. That exposure reportedly led to its return. The finer details may vary depending on who tells it, but the anecdote forms part of the village folklore.

Today, the hill holds mainly the remains of the sanctuary and the site itself. Often that is enough. Time spent looking out across the plain helps explain why this particular spot was chosen in the first place.

Food That Follows the Seasons

Montealegre del Castillo does not revolve around visitors. Meals reflect what is cooked in the area, without adaptation or display.

Gazpacho manchego appears frequently on tables when the cold sets in or when families gather. Despite the name, it has nothing to do with the chilled Andalusian soup. This is a hot, hearty stew made with meat and torta cenceña, an unleavened flatbread typical of the region. Anyone unfamiliar with it might underestimate it at first glance. It seems straightforward enough, yet it is substantial. Half a portion can be more than sufficient.

Migas also feature regularly. Stale bread forms the base, fried with garlic and some chorizo or other cured meats. In many homes, a handful of grapes or raisins is added. The ingredients are simple, but the result depends heavily on the person at the stove. Some cooks prepare it entirely by memory, without measuring anything at all.

These dishes belong to daily life rather than to any special occasion designed for outsiders. That is part of their appeal.

Choosing the Right Moment

Spring tends to be the most rewarding time to visit Montealegre del Castillo. The plains turn green, the air still moves freely and the sun warms without overwhelming. Around this season the local romería usually takes place, when the village grows livelier than usual.

Summer changes the atmosphere. July brings the fiestas of Santiago, and the streets fill with activity. It also brings dry heat that can turn the stone of the castle into something resembling a hot plate. During those months, early morning or late afternoon are more forgiving times to climb to the top.

In September, many people combine a visit here with a trip to nearby Caudete. Its Moros y Cristianos festivities have a strong tradition in the area and attract attention from across the region.

Each season reshapes the same landscape. Wheat fields, bare earth or sun-bleached grass alter the colours, but the horizon remains constant.

A Small Museum and a Wider Perspective

In the Ermita del Humilladero there is a small museum dedicated to the world of the shepherd. It may sound like a brief stop, yet inside are tools, zurrones or traditional leather bags, field clothing and the equipment that shaped everyday life in this area for centuries.

After seeing it, the view from the castle takes on a different meaning. The plain is not just an expanse of land. It reflects transhumance routes, livestock and open countryside that sustained generations. Conversations in the village still touch on that way of life.

Montealegre del Castillo rewards a slower pace. A morning walk up to the castle, time in the village streets and a late visit to the Cerro de los Santos allow the place to unfold gradually. As the sun drops and the plain turns gold, the setting changes character once again. If a long lunch leads to a brief siesta, so much the better. Here, there is little reason to rush.