Retuerta del Bullaque

A river at first light

At six in the morning, in Retuerta del Bullaque, the river smells of moss and wet stone. It moves slowly between willows and poplars, tracing a wide curve before slipping away towards the rañas of Cabañeros. From the road bridge, if you lean slightly over the side, you can spot the small whirlpools where the water catches on fallen branches. Hardly anyone passes at that hour. A blackbird might drop to the bank, then lift off the moment it senses movement.

This quiet rhythm sets the tone for the place. The Bullaque does not rush here, and neither does the village that grew beside it.

The bend that shaped a village

Retuerta exists because the Bullaque turns. The name says as much: a retuerta is a bend, a change in direction. The village leans against the hillside and faces the water, with white houses, reddish roofs and the occasional vine climbing up a façade.

In the main square, under the arcades of the town hall, early morning brings only the sound of a broom brushing the ground and the engine of a car starting up. A local, watching the same river he has seen all his life, remarks that there used to be more crayfish. He says it while looking towards the bridge, as if expecting them to reappear.

Along the narrow streets, the smell of firewood mixes with that of freshly baked bread. From here, a path leads out to the ermita del Milagro, a small rural chapel well known in the area. Many people walk there, following tracks that run alongside streams where alders and ash trees still provide shade, even in the height of summer.

Open plains and a wide sky

Step away from the river and the landscape changes abruptly. The small orchards disappear and the rañas take over. These are rough plains typical of the Montes de Toledo, covered in grass, scattered holm oaks and reddish soil that crunches underfoot when dry.

This is part of the territory of Cabañeros National Park. At the local visitor centre, explanations are usually clear about the birdlife found here. With a bit of patience, it is easy to spot vultures circling high above, riding the warm air currents that rise at midday.

Several routes follow the course of the Bullaque or cross these plains. Some can be done independently, though it is worth checking in advance which paths are open. Much of the surrounding land is privately owned, and access is not always permitted. In summer, the sun falls directly onto the rañas and shade is scarce, so carrying water and a hat makes a difference.

The sense of space is striking. Away from the riverbanks, there is little to interrupt the horizon, and the sky seems to stretch further than expected.

When the village changes pace

In August, during the fiestas of San Bartolomé, Retuerta becomes louder than usual. Balconies are draped with colourful fabrics, and at night the square fills with the smell of firewood, fried garlic and food cooked in large pans.

Later in the year, once summer has passed, the romería to the ermita del Milagro takes place. A romería is a traditional pilgrimage, often combining a walk through the countryside with a day of shared food and music. Many people make the journey on foot from the village or nearby spots. Along the way there are bells, music and long conversations in the shade. On the return, migas are often shared from earthenware dishes, with bread well soaked in fat and plenty of garlic.

A few kilometres away lies Pueblonuevo del Bullaque, built in the mid 20th century as a colonisation village. Its layout is very different: straight streets, low houses lined up in order, in contrast to the more irregular shape of Retuerta. In spring, it celebrates its own festivities around San Isidro, when tractors and horses once again fill the square.

The road out through the hills

Leaving towards Ciudad Real along the CM‑412, the landscape opens gradually. First come the poplar groves by the river, then the scattered holm oaks, and finally the long plains that signal the end of the hills.

If you stop at one of the higher points along the road, the shape of the valley becomes clear. The Bullaque winds below, Retuerta clings to the slope, and the rañas spread outwards like a vast table of reddish earth. In the evening, the light falls low and horizontal, and the tops of the poplars turn silver in the wind.

Spring and autumn tend to be the most comfortable seasons for walking in this area. Summer brings intense heat to the open plains, and the middle hours of the day can feel long under the sun.

It is also worth bearing in mind that many tracks in the surrounding area cross private land or protected zones. Checking access before setting off by car along rural tracks helps avoid problems, and respecting marked areas is especially important during bird breeding season.