Arcos de la Sierra

The church bell strikes eleven, but only six people hear it. Three are in the plaza, two lean from upstairs windows, and one sits motionless on a bench that faces the limestone ridge. This is Arcos de la Sierra at mid-morning, 1,130 metres above sea level, where silence weighs more than the surrounding peaks and the year’s biggest traffic jam happens when the shepherd moves forty sheep through the single paved street.

Most maps barely acknowledge the place. Turn off the CM-2106 between Beteta and the sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped sickle-shaped 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