Fuertescusa

Parking first, questions later

Fuertescusa is a village of 65 people in the Serranía Alta. The road from Cuenca takes about an hour. The last stretch is slow, with tight bends. Park at the entrance where it widens. The streets inside are too narrow for cars.

Come here to walk into the mountains, not to see a town. The village itself is tiny. It functions as a starting point.

A short walk through the centre

The whole place is built from local stone and dark wood. You can see it all in fifteen minutes. Houses cluster around a small square.

The church of San Martín is there. It’s a 16th-century rural church, plain and functional. It’s usually closed.

Look for the stone crosses and old fountains as you walk the lanes. The layout is typical of these mountains: short, steep slopes and blind corners.

Paths into the Serranía

This is why you come. Trails start directly behind the last houses. They head into pine forest and rocky ravines.

One path leads to Fuente del Hierro, a spring used locally for years. Others pass old majadas, stone livestock shelters now in ruins.

Markings are inconsistent. Have a map or GPS ready, especially where logging tracks cross the paths. The walking isn’t hard, but you can get turned around.

You might see roe deer or wild boar at dawn. Birds of prey circle over the cliffs most days.

Practical notes on food and timing

Local cooking is heavy, for winter: lamb stews, gachas, cured meats from family matanzas. Don't expect an open bar on a Tuesday.

In August, former residents return for the San Bartolomé festivities. There's noise and a procession for a few days. In January, bonfires are lit for San Antón, an old tradition linked to livestock.

Mushroom foraging is common in autumn. Locals know where to look for níscalos. If you don't know, don't pick.

Final advice

Plan this around a hike. Walk through Fuertescusa quickly. Spend your time on the trails towards Tragacete or Masegoso. If you don’t intend to walk into the sierra, there’s little reason to make the drive