Masarac

By mid-morning, once the sun has lifted the damp from the fields, the rural tracks around Masarac fill with thin shadows cast by pine trees. Wheat and barley barely stir, as if the air slips slowly between the stalks. The scent shifts as you go: turned earth, dry leaves, sometimes a sharper note carried in by the tramuntana, the strong northern wind typical of this part of Catalonia. In this corner of the Alt Empordà, where fewer than three hundred people live, tourism begins like this, walking unhurriedly along short, quiet streets lined with stone façades that still hold the roughness of time.

Set inland within the comarca, Masarac sits at some distance from the bustle of the coast. Figueres lies relatively close, about twenty kilometres away, yet on arrival the landscape opens out into farmland, low stone walls and small patches of woodland. The pace changes. A tractor passes now and then, a dog barks somewhere in the distance, and the wind moves through the higher branches.

A quiet village heritage

The historic centre is small and can be covered in a few minutes. The parish church of Sant Martí, originally Romanesque though altered over time, has a simple stone façade and a bell tower rising above the rooftops. Inside, the air stays cool even in summer. There are semicircular arches and a side chapel where traces of old painted decoration can still be made out, now very worn.

Around the village stand scattered masías, traditional rural houses, some of them very old. Thick walls, straight doorways, curved roof tiles. Many remain tied to agricultural work, while others have been restored with their original structure intact. From the paths, you can glimpse enclosed courtyards, vines climbing up walls and tools resting beside the entrances.

The landscape here is broad and level. Rural tracks cut across open fields with barely any change in height. On clear days, the view stretches far, until sky and land blur into a soft line of greens and ochres.

Walking among fields and vineyards

There are no large tourist facilities or continuously marked routes. Instead, there is a network of agricultural paths used by locals for generations. These are flat stretches, easy to follow on foot or by bicycle, with the dry sound of gravel and earth underfoot or beneath the wheels.

Along the way, old wells appear here and there, along with small irrigation channels and stone boundaries marking the edges of fields. When the tramuntana blows, which is quite common in this area, the whole scene shifts. The sky turns strikingly clear and the wind cuts across the fields with a steady whistle.

It is best to avoid the middle of the day in summer if planning to walk. Shade is scarce, and the sun falls directly onto the open land.

Eating and drinking nearby

Masarac is very small, so most services are found in nearby villages. Many visitors combine a stop here with time spent in other parts of the comarca.

The food traditions of the Alt Empordà show up in products that are easy to find in the area: olive oil from local cooperatives, cured meats and wines from the Empordà designation of origin. In recent years, several wineries nearby have opened their doors to visitors and organise tastings among the vineyards, something quite typical in this part of the region.

It is also common to pair a visit with a stop in L’Escala or other coastal towns, where fish and anchovies play a central role in local cooking.

Short trips from the village

From Masarac, several well-known spots in the Alt Empordà are within easy reach. Figueres is a short drive away and concentrates many of the comarca’s services and museums.

Another nearby option is Peralada, whose castle and historic complex draw considerable attention, especially in summer when a music festival is usually held. And for a complete change of scenery, the Costa Brava lies about twenty to thirty minutes away by road: rocky coves, coastal paths and the salty smell that arrives even before the sea comes into view.

Low-key traditions

Local celebrations follow a simple calendar. The festival linked to Sant Martí in November brings neighbours together around religious events and gatherings in the square. In summer, smaller activities appear, shared meals, live music and dances, organised mainly for residents and those spending part of their holidays here.

Nothing especially large or designed to attract crowds. These are gatherings where people know each other and conversations stretch on until the evening air cools.

Getting there

The easiest way to reach Masarac is by car. From Girona or Barcelona, the usual route follows the AP-7 motorway towards Figueres, then continues along local roads that cross fields and small rural settlements.