Riudoms

The scent of hazelnuts

Any look at Riudoms begins outside the village, in the flat farmland that surrounds it. The smell of toasted hazelnuts often arrives before the first houses come into view. Towards the end of summer, when the negreta variety falls, the most widespread in this part of the Camp de Tarragona, the tracks fill with sacks and small trailers.

Harvesting still relies on simple methods in many plots. The fruit is delicate and the terrain does not always suit large machinery, so work is often done by hand or with basic tools. The Hazelnut of Reus has held a protected designation of origin since the late twentieth century, although hazelnut growing here predates any official label by a long way.

This agricultural setting shapes the rhythm of the area. Fields stretch out in ordered rows, broken only by low walls or patches of scrub. The village itself feels closely tied to this landscape, rather than separate from it.

A village linked to Gaudí

Riudoms has long maintained a particular connection with Antoni Gaudí. Official records place his birth in Reus in 1852, yet his mother’s family came from Riudoms and he spent periods of his childhood here. That link is still visible in a family house associated with his maternal side.

The building is a rural property dating from the eighteenth century, built with brick and stone. Its layout remains largely domestic, with wooden beams, a spacious kitchen and rooms designed for agricultural life. The interest lies less in direct traces of the architect and more in the setting that shaped his early years. Craft traditions such as metalworking were present in the family, alongside a daily life closely tied to manual work and the surrounding land.

On the outskirts stands the Mas de la Calderera, another rural construction connected to the family. There are no formal elements that anticipate Gaudí’s later work. Instead, attention tends to drift to the landscape around it: plots of vines, old olive trees and, to the north, the outline of the Prades mountains.

The castle that disappeared

Medieval documents mention a castle in Riudoms as early as the twelfth century. In 1151, Count Ramon Berenguer IV granted the place to Arnau de Palomar with the obligation to fortify it. Written descriptions refer to gates, a barbican, a chamber and a well, suggesting a modest defensive structure intended to control the surrounding territory rather than a grand noble residence.

Nothing of the building remains visible today. Over time, and especially after the War of the Spanish Succession, its stone was reused in houses within the village. This reuse of materials is common across many parts of Catalonia, where former military structures gradually lost their purpose and were absorbed into everyday architecture.

The memory of the castle survives in its location. A path leads up from the centre of Riudoms to a slight rise. From there, the plain of the Camp de Tarragona opens out, and on clear days the sea appears in the distance.

Olive groves and dry-stone terraces

Hazelnuts may be the best-known crop, but olive trees also play a major role in shaping the surroundings. The arbequina variety dominates, forming part of the DOP Siurana, which brings together oils from much of this region.

Many groves are planted on terraces supported by dry-stone walls. Some of these were built or extended after the phylloxera crisis at the end of the nineteenth century, when large areas of vineyard were lost and more drought-resistant crops were needed. Olive trees adapted well to the poor, stony soils that characterise this landscape.

During the harvest season, activity increases around local cooperatives. With a respectful approach, it is sometimes possible to observe the milling process. This is not organised as a visitor experience, but simply part of the working life of the countryside.

Paths, fountains and open ground

The area around Riudoms is easy to explore on foot or by bicycle thanks to a network of agricultural tracks. Some local routes connect small fountains and former market garden areas. Several of these water sources have been documented since the early modern period and are still used, either for irrigation or as resting points.

The scenery is typical of the Camp de Tarragona. Hazelnut trees dominate, joined by olive groves, scattered almond trees and Mediterranean scrub along the edges of fields. In February, almond blossom briefly alters the look of the terrain, adding a short-lived contrast to the otherwise muted tones.

There is also a route that links places associated with Gaudí’s childhood, following old cart tracks between the village centre and nearby farmhouses. It offers a way of understanding how closely connected these spaces once were, before modern roads reshaped movement through the area.

Eating with the seasons

Local cooking reflects the agricultural calendar. In winter, escudella de pagès with pilota appears on the table. It is a substantial broth with vegetables, different meats and a large meatball that in this area is known as pilota.

Another familiar preparation in the Camp de Tarragona is coca de recapte. This is a thin bread base topped with roasted vegetables or simple stews. It is usually eaten warm and works equally well as a quick meal in the fields or as part of a family gathering.

Wines made from garnacha in the surrounding area tend to be light and fruit-forward, pairing easily with the straightforward style of local dishes.

Finding your bearings

Riudoms lies just a few kilometres from Reus and forms part of its immediate surroundings. The road connection between the two is quick, placing the village within easy reach while it retains its own rural character.