Vilaplana

A Village That Time Hasn't Forgotten

After quarter of a century in Spain, I thought I'd discovered every hidden corner worth knowing. Then last autumn, a Spanish friend mentioned Vilaplana almost in passing – "just 552 people up in the mountains above Reus," she said with a shrug. What she didn't mention was that I'd stumble upon one of Catalonia's most haunting secrets, perched at 1,200 feet where the stars shine brighter than anywhere I've seen in Spain.

This tiny village in the Baix Camp mountains doesn't appear on most tourist maps, and frankly, the locals rather like it that way. But for those of us seeking the Spain that exists beyond the beaches and bustling cities, Vilaplana offers something precious: authentic mountain life where your biggest decision is whether to tackle the ghost village of La Mussara before or after your morning coffee.

Life at Mountain Pace

Vilaplana moves to mountain rhythms, not Mediterranean ones. Forget the coastal siesta culture – here, people rise with the sun and work the land that's sustained families for generations. The village centre clusters around a handful of essential buildings: the 16th-century Church of the Nativity, the tiny town hall, and a bar where locals gather for their morning cortado and evening copa.

Don't expect bustling markets or designer boutiques. This is a place where your neighbour still keeps chickens, where the bread van visits twice weekly (Tuesdays and Fridays, don't forget), and where everyone knows everyone else's business – in the most charming way possible. The silence here is profound, broken only by church bells, birdsong, and the occasional tractor rumbling through narrow stone streets.

The architecture tells stories of centuries past: honey-coloured stone houses with terracotta tiles, wooden shutters weathered to silver-grey, and tiny wrought-iron balconies where geraniums cascade in defiant splashes of colour. It's picture-postcard Spain, but real and lived-in, not preserved for tourists.

Hidden Treasures in Ancient Stone

The crown jewel of any Vilaplana visit is La Mussara, the abandoned village that sits like a forgotten dream in the surrounding pine forests. This isn't just another pretty ruin – it's a genuine ghost town, abandoned in the 1960s when rural depopulation swept through Spain's mountain regions. The stone houses stand roofless against the sky, their empty windows staring across valleys that once echoed with children's laughter and daily life.

The walk to La Mussara takes about an hour through fragrant pine woods and rocky outcrops. Bring proper walking boots – the paths can be tricky, especially after rain. But do check the weather forecast religiously; mountain fog can roll in faster than you'd believe, turning your romantic adventure into a navigational nightmare. I learned this the hard way last November.

Back in Vilaplana proper, the Church of the Nativity rewards those who appreciate understated beauty. No gilded baroque excess here – just honest stone architecture and the kind of peaceful atmosphere that makes you understand why people still climb these mountains for Sunday mass.

For photographers, the area around Les Tosques offers spectacular viewpoints across the Baix Camp region. Golden hour here is pure magic, especially in autumn when the surrounding forests blaze with colour.

Mountain Flavours and Local Traditions

Don't expect gourmet restaurants in a village of 552 souls. Vilaplana's culinary scene centres on the local bar, where María serves honest Catalan cooking – perhaps a plate of butifarra amb mongetes (sausage with beans) or a hearty escudella soup that'll fuel your mountain wanderings.

But here's what you absolutely must seek out: the hazelnuts of Reus. This region produces some of Spain's finest avellanas, and you'll find them in local honey, nougat, and traditional sweets. Buy them direct from producers in nearby Reus market – they're incomparably better than anything you'll find in British supermarkets, and they make perfect gifts for folks back home.

The local wine culture leans toward simple, honest reds from nearby denominaciones. Don't expect Rioja sophistication, but do expect wines that pair beautifully with mountain air and stunning sunsets.

Getting There and Settling In

Right, let's be practical. Vilaplana isn't on any bus route worth mentioning, so you'll absolutely need a car. Rent a small one – the mountain roads twist and turn, and village streets were built for donkeys, not modern vehicles. The drive from Barcelona takes about two hours, from Reus about 45 minutes.

The village has exactly one small hotel, Casa Rural Can Francesc, which offers basic but spotlessly clean accommodation with mountain views that'll make you forget about thread counts and room service. Book well ahead – remember, this isn't Costa del Sol territory with hundreds of hotel rooms.

Spring and autumn are absolutely perfect for visiting. Summer can be surprisingly hot despite the altitude, while winter brings occasional snow that cuts the village off for days. I'm particularly fond of October, when the morning mist lifts to reveal forests in full autumn glory and the light has that golden quality photographers dream about.

Final Thoughts from the Mountains

Vilaplana won't suit everyone. If you need constant entertainment, restaurants on every corner, or reliable mobile signal, look elsewhere. But if you're seeking the Spain where time moves slowly, where mountain silence heals urban stress, and where 552 neighbours still live as communities should, this tiny village guards secrets worth discovering.

Pack good walking boots, bring a sense of adventure, and prepare for a Spain that tourism hasn't touched. Sometimes the best holidays happen in places that don't even try to be destinations.

Just remember to check the weather before heading to La Mussara. Trust me on this one.