L'Ametlla de Mar

A Secret Worth Sharing (Finally)

After 25 years in Spain, I thought I'd discovered every hidden gem along this coast. Then a Catalan friend dragged me to L'Ametlla de Mar, and I realised I'd been missing something extraordinary. This isn't your typical Costa del Sol resort – it's a working fishing village where you can literally swim alongside bluefin tuna the size of small cars. Yes, you read that right.

Nestled in Catalonia's Baix Ebre region, L'Ametlla de Mar (population just over 7,000) has managed to stay refreshingly authentic whilst offering something genuinely unique: the chance to snorkel with massive bluefin tuna in their natural habitat. It's one of only a handful of places worldwide where this is possible, and trust me, it'll leave you speechless.

Village Life: Where Fishing Boats Trump Jet Skis

Don't expect glitzy marinas or chain restaurants here. L'Ametlla's charm lies in its genuine fishing village atmosphere. The harbour still bustles with working boats bringing in the daily catch, and locals gather at the waterfront cafés for their morning coffee and gossip session – all in rapid-fire Catalan, of course.

The village spreads inland from its rocky coastline, with narrow streets that were clearly designed for donkeys, not cars. The pace is deliciously slow, especially during the sacred siesta hours when even the seagulls seem to take a break. Come evening, families emerge for their paseo along the coastal path, children clutching ice creams whilst parents catch up on local news.

What strikes me most about L'Ametlla is how the sea dominates everything. Unlike inland villages where agriculture rules, here it's all about the Mediterranean. The town's entire identity revolves around bluefin tuna farming and the pristine calas (coves) that dot the coastline like hidden jewels.

The Star Attraction: Swimming with Leviathans

The famous Tuna Tour is absolutely unmissable – book well in advance, especially if you're visiting between June and September. Picture this: you're snorkeling in crystal-clear Mediterranean waters when a 300kg bluefin tuna glides past like a silver torpedo. These magnificent creatures, some over six feet long, move with surprising grace through the tuna farms just offshore.

The tour operators are brilliant – proper marine biologists who'll explain everything about these incredible fish whilst ensuring your safety. The experience costs around €50 per person, and honestly, it's worth every penny. Just remember to bring an underwater camera; your friends back in Blighty won't believe the photos otherwise.

Beyond the tuna tours, the coastline here is absolutely stunning. The GR-92 coastal path winds between hidden coves with names like Cala Forn and Cala Bon Capó. Fair warning though: reaching the best beaches requires a proper hike – 15 to 30 minutes over rocky terrain. Wear decent trainers and bring water; the Spanish sun is no joke.

Dining: Where the Catch of the Day Actually Means Something

Forget about tourist menus here. L'Ametlla's restaurants serve what the boats bring in, and that means some of the finest bluefin tuna you'll ever taste. The local speciality is atún rojo de almadraba – bluefin tuna prepared every way imaginable. Try the tuna tataki at any of the chiringuitos (beach bars) around the port, or go for the classic grilled version with just olive oil and sea salt.

My favourite spot is a little place called Bar del Puerto (forgive me, I'm terrible with Catalan names). It's where the fishermen eat, which tells you everything. No fancy décor, just plastic chairs and the day's catch chalked on a blackboard. Order the tuna tartare and a crisp Catalan white – pure heaven.

For evening meals, remember that dinner doesn't start until 9pm at the earliest. Use the early evening for a sunset drink at one of the waterfront terraces whilst watching the fishing boats return. The pace is wonderfully relaxed, and the locals are genuinely welcoming once you make an effort with a bit of Spanish or Catalan.

Getting There and Practical Bits

Right, let's talk logistics. L'Ametlla de Mar sits about 90 minutes south of Barcelona and roughly two hours from Valencia. You'll absolutely need a car – public transport to these smaller coastal villages is frankly hopeless. The good news is that rental cars in Spain are reasonably priced, and the coastal roads are spectacular.

The drive down the C-44 hugs the coastline with breathtaking views, though be prepared for winding roads that weren't designed for modern traffic. Take your time and enjoy the scenery – this isn't the place for motorway speeds.

Parking in the village centre can be a nightmare in summer, but there are several car parks just outside the old town. Walk the final bit; it's more pleasant anyway.

When to Visit and Where to Stay

May through October is perfect for swimming and snorkeling, with water temperatures comfortable even for us soft Brits. June is ideal for the Tuna Tour before the peak summer heat makes everything rather intense. July and August are busy with Spanish families, so book accommodation early.

For stays, there are some lovely holiday rental apartments near the port – perfect for that "try before you buy" experience if you're considering a Spanish retirement. The local tourism office (surprisingly helpful) can point you towards family-run guesthouses that offer genuine Spanish hospitality.

Travel insurance is essential, especially if you're planning water activities. Spanish healthcare is excellent, but you don't want to worry about costs if something goes wrong during your tuna swimming adventure.

L'Ametlla de Mar isn't for everyone – it's not glitzy or sophisticated. But if you want authentic Spain with an extraordinary marine twist, this little village will capture your heart completely. Just promise me you'll book that Tuna Tour. Twenty-five years in Spain, and it's still the most magical thing I've experienced in these waters.