Begur

Begur, or when your neighbor goes to Cuba and comes back to build a weird house

You know those towns where everyone seems to have a rich uncle abroad? Begur is the 19th-century version of that, but the uncle went to Cuba. And instead of just sending money, he came back and built a house with columns and a palm tree, right next to his cousin’s medieval stone cottage. The result is a place that feels layered, like it can’t quite decide if it’s a Catalan hill town or a subtropical postcard. It works, somehow.

The castle is basically a very fancy bench with a view

Let’s be clear: you’re not going up to the Castell de Begur to see a castle. What’s left are some crumbling walls that look more like an ambitious rock formation than a fortress. You go for the bench. Well, not an actual bench, but the 360-degree perch it gives you. From up there, the geography clicks. You see how the town huddles around the hill, the patchwork of the Empordà plain behind it, and that strip of coastline with its famous coves—Sa Tuna, Aiguablava—tucked into the folds. On a stupidly clear day, you can spot the Pyrenees. It’s the best free orientation tour you’ll get.

The coves: famous for a reason (and that's the problem)

The postcard shots of Sa Tuna are real. It really is that turquoise against those white houses. And because of that, by 11 AM on a summer Saturday, it feels like everyone in Girona province had the same idea. My move? Use Sa Tuna as your landmark, but walk away from it. Follow the cami de ronda north or south. The path is rocky and uneven—wear shoes that can handle it—and after ten minutes, the crowd thins out. You’ll find smaller inlets where the main sound is water sloshing in a rock pool, not car doors slamming in a parking lot. You trade services for solitude.

Eat what's come out of that sea

The menus here don't overthink it. If it swam nearby, it’s probably in a pot. The suquet de peix is the ultimate test of a kitchen: a fisherman’s stew that should taste of saffron, garlic, and reduced fish stock so good you'll want to drink it. When it’s done right, it’s profound. When it’s not, it's just fish soup. Arròs de llamàntol (lobster rice) is the other big hitter. It's usually priced accordingly, so make sure you're hungry and ready to commit. For lunch by the cove? Keep it simple with an esqueixada. Salted cod shredded with tomato and onion. It’s fresh, sharp, and cuts through the heat.

A walking tour of other people's 19th-century flex

The so-called Ruta de les Cases Indianes isn't a marked trail; you just wander and play spot-the-details. Look for houses with wraparound wooden galleries (to catch the Caribbean breeze), pastel colors, and ornate tile work that looks utterly foreign here. They cluster near Plaça de la Vila and along Carrer del Forn. It feels less like planned architecture and more like sporadic showing off—which is exactly what it was.

So when do you go?

• August: The town’s festa major is on, but it's also peak everything. If you come then, your day will be governed by parking spot logistics.
• September: The Fira d'Indians (early in the month) turns the place into a Havana-themed block party with everyone in white guayaberas. Fun if you like crowds with a theme.
• A weekend in June: This is my pick. The water is swimmable if you're not fussy, the town has woken up but isn't overwhelmed yet,and you can actually get a table without planning like a military campaign.Do morning at a cove,lunch late,wander past those oddball houses,and end up at that castle-bench for sunset.It shows you Begur's range withoutthe summer stress