Castell-Platja d'Aro

The Best of Both Worlds on Spain's Most Famous Coast

After 25 years of calling Spain home, I've watched the Costa Brava transform from a backpacker's secret to a global destination. But here's the thing about Castell-Platja d'Aro – it's managed to keep both its wild, untamed coastline and its reputation as the coast's most spirited party town. It's rather like having your cake and eating it too, which as we Brits know, is exactly what a proper holiday should be about.

I first stumbled upon this stretch of coast in the early 2000s, expecting just another overdeveloped resort. Instead, I found a place where you could spend your morning hiking along pristine clifftop paths and your evening dancing until dawn. Twenty years later, it's still got that magical balance, though you'll need to time your visit carefully to avoid the madness.

Where Ancient Meets Modern Along the Mediterranean

Castell-Platja d'Aro is actually three places rolled into one, which explains why it feels so wonderfully schizophrenic. There's Platja d'Aro, the beachfront party central; S'Agaró, the posh residential area with stunning architecture; and Castell d'Aro, the original medieval village perched inland. It's like a Spanish layer cake, each level offering something completely different.

The medieval core of Castell d'Aro, just a few miles inland, feels worlds away from the coastal buzz. Stone houses huddle around narrow streets that haven't changed much since the Middle Ages. The locals here go about their daily business – shopping at the market, chatting outside the church – whilst the coast below pulses with holiday energy. It's this contrast that makes the place so fascinating.

Down at sea level, life moves to a different rhythm entirely. Platja d'Aro has embraced its role as the Costa Brava's unofficial party capital with gusto. The main strip thrums with energy from June through September, whilst hidden coves just minutes away offer the kind of pristine beauty that makes you understand why the Catalans call this the "wild coast."

Hidden Gems and Clifftop Adventures

The absolute must-do here is the Camino de Ronda coastal path from S'Agaró, particularly at sunset. This ancient smugglers' route hugs the clifftops, revealing secret coves and providing views that'll have you reaching for your camera every few steps. The path is well-maintained and suitable for most fitness levels, though proper walking shoes are essential – flip-flops won't cut it on these rocky sections.

The Cavall Bernat rock formation is Instagram-famous now, but don't let that put you off. This dramatic stone arch rising from the sea is genuinely spectacular, especially when the evening light catches it just right. You can reach it via the coastal path or by kayak if you're feeling adventurous.

For a dose of local culture, venture inland to explore the original Castell d'Aro village. The medieval streets are perfect for an afternoon wander, and the views back down to the coast are sublime. It's also blissfully quiet compared to the beachfront bustle.

Seafood by the Sea and Late-Night Revelry

The dining scene here revolves around one glorious dish: suquet de peix, a rich fish stew that's the Costa Brava's answer to bouillabaisse. The best versions are served at the chiringuitos (beach bars) right on the sand, where you can watch the waves whilst tucking into locally caught fish prepared the traditional way.

My favourite spot is a little place near the far end of the main beach – I won't name it because it's still relatively unknown, but look for the one where Spanish families queue up around seven in the evening. That's always a good sign.

The nightlife here is legendary, though it's definitely geared towards those who like their parties loud and late. The main strip transforms after midnight into something resembling Ibiza's younger, slightly less polished cousin. If you prefer quieter evenings, book accommodation away from the centre or consider staying in nearby S'Agaró, where the vibe is considerably more refined.

Practical Bits: Getting There and Getting Around

Castell-Platja d'Aro sits about 65 miles northeast of Barcelona and is easily accessible by car via the AP-7 motorway. The drive takes around an hour and a half in normal traffic, though summer weekends can be hellish. I'd strongly recommend renting a car – public transport to the hidden coves and inland villages is virtually non-existent, and you'll want the freedom to escape when the crowds become too much.

Parking in summer is an absolute nightmare, particularly in August. The municipal car parks charge eye-watering rates, and street parking disappears faster than free tapas. Many visitors park in the residential areas of S'Agaró and walk, which is actually rather pleasant if you don't mind the 20-minute stroll.

The best time to visit is June or September. You'll get lovely weather, reasonable crowds, and much better value for accommodation. July is busier but manageable; August is best avoided unless you thrive on chaos and don't mind paying premium prices for everything.

For accommodation, I'd suggest looking at holiday rental apartments rather than hotels – they offer better value and the flexibility to prepare your own meals. Many British expats own properties here and let them out during the summer months, so you'll often find places that cater specifically to British tastes.

Travel insurance is absolutely essential, particularly if you plan on exploring the coastal paths or trying water sports. The terrain can be challenging, and whilst Spanish healthcare is excellent, you'll want the peace of mind.

Castell-Platja d'Aro isn't for everyone – it's loud, busy, and decidedly party-focused during peak season. But if you can handle the energy and time your visit well, it offers an intoxicating blend of natural beauty and Mediterranean hedonism that's hard to find elsewhere. Just remember to book your dinner table for 10 PM at the earliest, and don't even think about heading out to the bars before midnight. When in Rome, as they say – or in this case, when on the Costa Brava.