Centelles

Centelles smells of llonganissa on some Sunday mornings. That is not a figure of speech. The village workshops start early and, when the wind cooperates, the scent drifts down towards the centre.

Arriving by car is straightforward, but parking requires a little thought. It is worth trying near the sports pavilion or in the surrounding streets. In the centre, parking is usually regulated, and circling round rarely pays off.

Centelles is not a place packed with headline sights. It works better as a short outing, somewhere to walk for a couple of hours, sit on a bench, and head home after lunch. The appeal lies in small details rather than big attractions.

The castle that is not quite a castle

Head up Carrer Nou and within a few minutes you reach what remains of the castle. “Remains” is the right word. There are three walls and a tower, nothing more. There is no entrance gate, no ticket office and no supervision. These are open ruins, simply there.

The view from the top is not dramatic. You can see the Vallès Oriental, patches of countryside and the C‑17 road running in the distance. It is an ordinary panorama rather than a sweeping one.

The interest of the site lies in its age rather than in what survives. A fortification here is mentioned in medieval documents, which gives the place historical weight even if little is left standing. What you see today does not take long to explore.

There is a bench beside one of the walls. Sit for a moment, take in the quiet, and then head back down. It is not a stop that demands much time, and it does not pretend to.

A walk without the queues

At weekends, the Vía Ferrada draws plenty of visitors. Groups and organised courses often form queues at the cable sections. If you are travelling with children, or simply prefer a calmer walk, the route dels Molins is a better option.

It is a short, fairly flat stroll. Water runs alongside the path in several places, and you pass the remains of old mills that once made use of the stream. The walk begins near the football ground and is easy to follow.

After rain, the ground turns seriously muddy. Proper footwear is advisable, especially if you do not mind it getting dirty. On dry days, it is a relaxed way to spend an hour, with the sound of water close by and enough to look at without feeling like an organised excursion.

The route works well as a gentle counterpoint to the busier Vía Ferrada. There are no harnesses or helmets here, just a straightforward path and traces of local history.

Barretines and witches

In the 17th century, this area experienced rural conflicts linked to the so‑called Revolta dels Barretines. The name refers to the traditional red Catalan cap, the barretina, worn by peasants of the time. In Centelles, this episode appears on several information panels around the village, though the explanations are brief rather than exhaustive.

Another reminder of that period stands on Carrer Major. On one wall, there is a long list of names connected to witchcraft trials from the same century. It is not presented as a grand monument. There are no sculptures or elaborate displays. It is simply a list.

That simplicity gives it a certain weight. A sequence of names, one after another, makes the history feel direct. There is little interpretation offered, and perhaps that is the point. Visitors are left to draw their own conclusions from the bare record.

At the end of winter, Centelles hosts the Cau de Bruixes. It is a well‑attended festival inspired by those historical associations with witchcraft. The streets fill up and the atmosphere shifts from everyday routine to something more theatrical. If crowds are not appealing, another weekend might suit better.

Outside festival time, the village returns to its usual rhythm. The panels about the Revolta dels Barretines and the list on Carrer Major remain, quiet markers of a turbulent past.

Eating in the centre

Centelles does not trade on elaborate presentation when it comes to food. Around the main promenade and nearby streets, there are bars serving simple dishes and set lunchtime menus.

It is worth asking for fesols del ganxet when they are available. This local variety of white bean is widely appreciated in Catalonia. If llonganissa de Centelles appears on the menu, it deserves attention. The village continues to defend this product as part of its identity, and the smell drifting through the streets on certain mornings makes that clear enough.

On Friday mornings, there is usually a market. Stalls sell traditional embutido and many local residents shop there for their weekly supplies. The atmosphere is practical rather than touristic. It feels like a place where people buy food for home, not souvenirs.

The food scene here matches the rest of the town. It is straightforward, rooted in everyday habits, and best enjoyed without expecting spectacle.

A short visit is enough

Centelles has a train station on the line connecting Barcelona and Vic, so arriving without a car is easy. That connection makes it a convenient half‑day escape from either direction.

An early start works well. A short walk in the morning, lunch in the centre, and a return journey in the afternoon is a sensible plan. The urban area can be seen quickly. If the visit stretches too long, there is a risk of wandering around without much purpose.

The strength of Centelles lies in the walk itself rather than in ticking off sights. A bench by the castle wall, a muddy stretch on the route dels Molins, the list of names on Carrer Major, the smell of llonganissa in the air. These are small experiences, but they define the place more clearly than any grand attraction could.

Centelles does not try to impress. It offers a few fragments of history, a manageable route by the water, and food that locals still stand by. For a brief outing in Cataluna, that can be more than enough.