L'Espluga de Francolí

Why I Keep Coming Back to Catalunya's Hidden Underground Cathedral

After 25 years in Spain, I thought I'd explored every corner worth visiting. Then a Catalan friend dragged me to L'Espluga de Francolí, insisting I'd thank her later. She was right. This village of 3,700 souls, perched at 1,348 feet in the Conca de Barberà wine region, harbours secrets that'll make you question why everyone flocks to the overcrowded Costa Brava.

The star attraction? An underground wonderland that's been 2.5 million years in the making. But L'Espluga offers so much more: Templar mysteries, architectural gems by Gaudí's contemporary, and some of Catalunya's finest wines. Best of all, mass tourism hasn't discovered it yet.

Daily Life in a Village That Time Forgot (In the Best Way)

L'Espluga feels authentically Catalan in a way that touristy Cadaqués or Sitges simply can't match anymore. The old men still gather in the plaça for their morning coffee and heated discussions about football. Children kick balls against ancient stone walls whilst their mothers chat outside the local bakery.

The village follows proper Spanish rhythms - everything shuts from 2-5pm for siesta, then springs back to life until well past 9pm. Don't expect London-style efficiency or opening hours. This is Spain doing what Spain does best: taking time to actually live rather than simply exist.

The locals are patient with foreigners attempting Catalan or Spanish, though many older residents speak limited English. A few basic phrases go a long way here - more so than in touristy areas where everyone's switched to English survival mode.

What Makes L'Espluga Extraordinary

The Cueva de la Font Major: Nature's Cathedral

This isn't your typical tourist cave with tame walkways and theatrical lighting. The Font Major cave system stretches for 2.2 miles underground, though visitors can explore about half that distance. The main chamber feels like stepping into a Gothic cathedral carved by water and time - stalactites and stalagmites reaching towards each other in formations that defy belief.

There are two tour options: the standard 90-minute walk suitable for most fitness levels, and the "adventure route" that involves proper scrambling through narrower passages. Book ahead - they limit numbers to preserve this fragile ecosystem, and weekends fill up months in advance.

The cave maintains a constant 15°C (59°F) year-round, making it perfect for escaping summer heat or winter chill. Wear proper shoes with grip; the paths can be slippery.

Following in Templar Footsteps

L'Espluga sits on the Cistercian Route, connecting the magnificent monasteries of Poblet, Santes Creus, and Vallbona de les Monges. The Templars used this village as a strategic stopping point, and their influence lingers in the medieval streets and mysterious symbols carved into doorways.

The Museum of Rural Life occupies a beautifully restored building and tells the story of traditional Catalan country life with engaging exhibits that bring the past to life. It's small but perfectly curated - allow an hour.

Architectural Surprise: Modernist Wine Cellar

Here's something completely unexpected: a stunning modernist winery designed by César Martinell, a contemporary of Gaudí. The 1918 cooperative building showcases the same flowing lines and innovative use of materials that made Catalan modernism famous. You can visit during harvest season (September-October) when it's still functioning, or year-round for architectural appreciation.

Eating and Drinking Like a Local

The Wine Scene

The Conca de Barberà DO produces some of Catalunya's most underrated wines, particularly excellent value reds and the traditional Cava sparkling wine. Visit Celler Cooperatiu L'Espluga to taste wines literally made where you're standing.

Local Specialities

Come during calçot season (February-March) for the ultimate Catalan experience. These sweet spring onions are grilled over vine cuttings, dipped in romesco sauce, and eaten with your hands while wearing a bib. It's messy, delicious, and utterly authentic.

The village has three decent restaurants, though don't expect elaborate menus. Cal Ganxo does excellent traditional Catalan cooking using local ingredients. Book ahead at weekends when families drive up from Tarragona for Sunday lunch.

Shopping for Home

The local cooperative sells excellent olive oil, wine, and preserves - perfect for taking home or gifting. Prices are a fraction of what you'd pay in tourist areas for similar quality.

Practical Essentials

Getting There

You'll need a car - trust me on this. Public transport exists but involves multiple connections and takes forever. The drive from Barcelona is about 90 minutes via the A-2 motorway, then lovely winding roads through wine country. From Tarragona, it's just 45 minutes inland.

Rent something small and nimble - the village streets are medieval narrow, and parking is limited. The main car park is just outside the old town centre.

Best Times to Visit

Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are ideal. The weather's perfect for cave exploration and vineyard walks, plus autumn brings harvest festivities. Summer gets hot, though the caves provide blessed relief. Winter can be chilly and wet, but you'll have the place virtually to yourself.

Where to Stay

Accommodation options are limited - this isn't Benidorm. There's a small rural hotel and several casa rurales (country houses) that rent rooms or entire properties. Book well ahead, especially for weekends. Many visitors use L'Espluga as a day trip base while staying in nearby Montblanc or even Tarragona.

For longer stays or group visits, holiday rental houses in the surrounding countryside offer better value and the full Catalan village experience.

Essential Bookings

Reserve cave tours online at least a week ahead (www.espeleoxic.com). The adventure tours require decent fitness and close-toed shoes. Standard tours accommodate most mobility levels but still involve steps and uneven surfaces.

Final Wisdom

Bring layers - even in summer, you'll want a light jacket for the caves. The village has limited services, so arrive with a full tank and snacks if visiting on Sundays or holidays when shops close.

L'Espluga proves that Spain's best experiences often lie off the beaten path, where authentic culture and natural wonders await those curious enough to venture beyond the obvious. Just don't tell everyone - some secrets are worth keeping.