Vilanova de Sau

If you are planning a trip to Vilanova de Sau, the first thing to think about is the car. The village is small and there is limited parking in the centre. Most people leave their vehicle in the upper part of the village or in a space by the roadside, then continue on foot. During the week it is generally quiet. At weekends, especially when the reservoir level is low and the bell tower is visible, there is a noticeable increase in visitors.

Vilanova de Sau has around 325 inhabitants and belongs to the comarca of Osona, in the province of Cataluna. It sits beside the Sau reservoir, known locally as the embalse de Sau, and below the wooded mountains of les Guilleries. There are not many sights within the village itself. People come mainly for the landscape and for the reservoir.

The Sau Reservoir and the Bell Tower

The embalse de Sau defines the whole area. Built in the 1960s, it flooded the old village of Sant Romà de Sau. When the water level drops, the Romanesque bell tower of the 11th century church reappears.

That bell tower rising from the water is the image most associated with this place. At times it stands half submerged. At other times, when drought lowers the waterline, it is possible to walk around it following the former layout of the old village streets. Everything depends on rainfall and on the current level of the reservoir.

It is worth checking the state of the reservoir before travelling. If the water is high, only the upper part of the tower can be seen, and only from a distance. When levels are lower, the setting changes completely and the structure becomes the centre of attention.

The scene can feel stark. Stone emerging from cracked ground, or from still water, creates a strong contrast with the surrounding hills. The visual impact explains why so many people head here with a camera when drought exposes more of the submerged remains.

The Village of Vilanova de Sau

The village itself is small and straightforward. There are simple houses, a few masías scattered around the outskirts and little else. A masía is a traditional Catalan farmhouse, often isolated and linked historically to agricultural life. The main square is unremarkable and can be crossed in a matter of minutes.

The parish church of Santa Maria stands slightly elevated above the rest of the settlement. It is a sober building, typical of inland villages in this part of Cataluna. The architecture does not seek to impress. The real perspective comes when looking out from this higher point towards the reservoir and the open valley beyond.

Life here moves slowly. There is no strong tourist atmosphere and no wide range of services. The rhythm feels closer to that of a rural community than to that of a destination built around visitors. For anyone expecting museums, guided attractions or busy streets, Vilanova de Sau will seem limited. Its appeal lies elsewhere.

Walking Around the Reservoir

What most people actually do in Vilanova de Sau is walk. Paths descend towards the edge of the reservoir, while others head into the forests of les Guilleries. The landscape shifts between open views of water and shaded stretches beneath trees.

The path that approaches the bell tower is the busiest. The ground conditions vary according to the water level. Sometimes it is a clear track that leads steadily downwards. At other times there may be mud or loose stones underfoot, depending on how recently the water has receded.

Longer routes branch off towards the nearby mountains or in the direction of Montseny, a well-known natural area in Cataluna. Many of these tracks were once forest roads or old routes connecting masías. Today they serve walkers who come for a few hours outdoors rather than for a specific landmark.

On quiet days it is possible to spot herons, cormorants and other birds that inhabit the reservoir. The atmosphere changes quickly with the weather. If there is wind, the sense of calm fades and the water loses its mirror-like stillness. Conditions have a direct impact on the experience, from the quality of the views to the ease of walking.

This is not a place designed around marked attractions. The interest comes from moving through the landscape, observing how the reservoir reshapes the terrain and seeing how the bell tower appears or disappears with the seasons.

Eating and Planning Your Visit

There are only a few places in the village where you can sit down to eat, and opening hours are not always extensive. Many visitors bring food with them and eat near the reservoir, or continue on to other villages in Osona afterwards.

The best time to come is usually early in the morning or later in the afternoon. Around midday, particularly in good weather, cars and day trippers tend to arrive in greater numbers. Outside those peak moments, the area feels more open and unhurried.

The approach here is simple: come prepared for a long walk, take time to look at the reservoir and leave without rushing. If you are looking for a village packed with attractions and activities, this is not the right destination. If you want a few hours outdoors and the chance to see the bell tower of Sau up close when conditions allow, it does what it promises.

Vilanova de Sau does not try to be more than it is. A small settlement of 325 residents on the edge of a reservoir, shaped by water levels and weather. For many, that is reason enough to make the journey.