Porqueres

A Village Shaped by Water and Hills

Some places look designed for mountain bikers to boast about their routes. Then there is Porqueres, which feels as though someone placed a village on top of a jigsaw puzzle. The lake of Banyoles forms one edge, the hills of the Pla de l’Estany complete the outline, and in the middle sits this municipality of just under five thousand inhabitants that seems to occupy more space than it actually does.

It is easy to underestimate Porqueres on a map. In reality, the presence of the lake and the gentle relief around it give the area a sense of breadth. You are never far from open views, from water reflecting the sky, or from tracks that invite you to walk or cycle a little further than planned.

Santa María de Porqueres, Worthy of Its Own Story

The first encounter with Santa María de Porqueres can be disconcerting, in the best sense. The church is not imposing in size, yet its main doorway demands attention. It has four archivolts, the curved mouldings that frame the entrance, and three of them are horseshoe-shaped. That detail is unusual in Catalan Romanesque architecture. It makes you look twice.

The current church was consecrated in the 12th century, but the site itself goes much further back. Archaeological remains found beneath the building point to earlier occupations, some from Roman times and even before. It is one of those places where history accumulates in layers, each period building over the previous one without entirely erasing it.

The bell tower visible today was erected centuries after the original structure, replacing what once stood there. Like in many villages, the bells still mark the rhythm of important moments. Feast days, Sundays or more serious events are announced in sound. In settings like this, the ringing of bells continues to function as information, not background noise.

The Lake That Is Not Only Banyoles

A detail that often goes unnoticed is that the lake of Banyoles does not belong solely to the town of Banyoles. Part of its perimeter lies within the municipal boundaries of Porqueres.

The full circuit around the lake measures roughly eight kilometres. At almost any time of day, the path is shared by cyclists, walkers and runners. Some treat it as training. Others move at a slower pace, stopping to look at the water or to watch how the light shifts as the afternoon advances.

On foot, the loop takes a little over an hour at an unhurried pace. Finishing the circuit often leads to sitting down on one of the terraces around the lake or heading towards the village’s Plaça Major. The square keeps the layout typical of medieval plazas, buildings enclosing the space and a noticeable amount of local life moving through it.

Porqueres does not present the lake as a spectacle. It is simply part of daily life. The presence of water shapes the landscape and the routines of those who live nearby, whether they are out exercising or just passing time outdoors.

A Town Hall with Defensive Origins

The town hall occupies Mas Ferrerós, a building that did not begin life as an administrative office. It was a medieval fortified house, probably from the 13th century, designed with defence in mind rather than paperwork.

There is a certain irony in entering such a structure for everyday municipal matters, aware that the walls have stood for centuries. During heritage days or cultural activities organised in autumn, parts of the building are sometimes opened or its history explained in greater detail.

The existence of Mas Ferrerós says something about the past of the area. Even in a place that now feels calm and residential, architecture once had to respond to very different concerns.

On the Table in Porqueres

Food here follows the logic of the surrounding region. Botifarra amb mongetes appears again and again in Catalan homes. The dish is straightforward: grilled botifarra sausage, white beans sautéed properly, little else. When prepared well, it does exactly what it promises.

Another classic is coca de llardons, a pastry made with pork crackling that is especially associated with carnival time. Outside that season it may not be so easy to find.

There is also a tradition of artisan cheeses in the area, both goat’s and cow’s milk. Small producers sometimes appear at local markets or regional fairs. Buying directly from the person who made the cheese changes the experience. The product tastes different when there is a face and a conversation behind it.

This is not a destination built around elaborate gastronomy. The emphasis is on familiar dishes and products tied to the land.

The Route of the Three Chapels

One of the better-known walks in the area links Santa María de Porqueres with nearby hermitages such as Sant Esteve and Sant Martirià. The total distance is around eight kilometres, with some gently uphill sections.

It often begins as a modest plan for a short stroll and ends with more elevation gained than expected from the map. Even so, many people complete it on foot or by bike without difficulty.

At the hermitage of Sant Martirià, a local festival is traditionally held in spring. It retains a distinctly village atmosphere, with families, neighbours and familiar faces gathering together. Events like this reveal another side of Porqueres, one rooted less in monuments and more in community.

Beyond the Checklist

Porqueres does not work particularly well with a checklist mentality. There is no long catalogue of monuments or a historic centre packed with museums.

It is the kind of place where you arrive, visit the church, walk part or all of the lake, then sit for a while watching people pass. When you eventually look at the time, several hours have slipped by.

In summer the presence of second homes is noticeable, especially among people coming from Barcelona. Spring and autumn tend to feel calmer. Winter can bring grey days, yet when the sun appears the landscape around the lake takes on a serene quality.

Porqueres rewards a slower approach. The appeal lies less in ticking off sights and more in allowing the setting, the water and the everyday rhythm of the village to set the pace.