Santa Eulàlia de Ronçana

The scent of thyme lingers as you walk up one of the paths that lead towards Corró d’Amunt. Early in the morning the soil still holds the night’s damp, and the sun rises slowly behind the low hills. From these heights, just over two hundred metres above sea level, the Vallès opens out completely: scattered rooftops between fields, thin threads of riera cutting across the crops, and in the distance the outline of the Montseny, blue on some days, almost grey on others.

Santa Eulàlia de Ronçana does not revolve around a single central square. Houses stand apart, sometimes several minutes’ walk from one another. Its origins were both old and dispersed. Documents from the 16th century already mention a few dozen households, masías spread across the valley. Many remain, with thick stone walls and curved roof tiles darkened by time. Others have been renovated, though they still keep the wide doorways through which carts once passed.

In the late 19th century, small textile factories arrived, making use of the water from the rieras. Some of those buildings have since been repurposed, others simply absorbed into the landscape. Look closely and the signs are still there: brick chimneys, arches from former washhouses now draped in ivy.

Following the Water Through the Valley

Walking in Santa Eulàlia de Ronçana often means following the sound of running water. Several rieras cross the municipality, descending from higher ground in the Vallès Oriental before feeding into larger watercourses. In spring, after days of rain, the murmur can be heard from far off.

Along these streams are small pools and quiet bends beneath cork oaks and pines. In summer, when the heat builds, some people still come to cool their feet, though the flow varies greatly from year to year.

Simple footpaths trace the course of the rieras and link old springs. These are gentle walks, without steep climbs. Early light filters low through the trees, turning moss on damp stones almost luminous. In August it is wise to set out early, as by midday the sun falls directly on the more open stretches.

The rhythm here is unhurried. Water shapes both the landscape and the way it is experienced, drawing walkers along natural lines rather than marked routes or formal viewpoints.

Festivals That Still Belong to the Street

Local celebrations remain central to village life. The winter festa major, dedicated to Santa Eulàlia, fills the square by the church with folding chairs and families who have known one another for generations. Sardanas, the traditional Catalan circle dances, are performed at an unhurried pace. Children run around the edges while older neighbours catch up on the week’s news.

Groups linked to fire are also a common sight. Diablos and tabalers, figures associated with traditional fire runs and drumming, take part in correfocs and other dances. Many of these groups were revived a few decades ago by residents who wanted to restore customs that had faded.

In spring there is usually a gathering connected to herbs and local produce, a tradition found across the Vallès area. On that day nearby paths fill with people collecting rosemary, thyme or fennel. The landscape itself becomes part of the celebration, and the smell of crushed leaves follows walkers back towards the houses.

These events are not staged spectacles. They unfold in the open air, on streets and squares that function as shared spaces rather than formal venues. Even visitors sense that the calendar here is still shaped by local memory and seasonal change.

Autumn in the Pinewoods

By October the scenery shifts quickly. Pinewoods around the masías begin to smell of damp earth, and mushroom hunters appear, moving slowly with their eyes fixed on the ground. As in many rural areas, much of this land is privately owned, and asking permission before entering is the norm.

On some nearby hills, traces of ancient human occupation have been documented. They are not always excavated or signposted, yet from these higher points the view stretches wide: fields of the Vallès, scattered housing developments, and on very clear days even a distant strip hinting at the sea.

Close to one of the rieras lies a corner known locally as the Racó de les Bruixes, the Witches’ Corner. A small plaque recalls witchcraft trials that took place in this part of the Vallès during the 17th century. Beyond the historical explanation, some people still leave candles or sprigs of rosemary among the stones. It is a place where popular memory continues in its own way, blending documented events with gestures that feel older than any sign.

Autumn brings a different pace. The paths soften underfoot, colours deepen, and the valley seems to fold in on itself slightly after the brightness of summer.

Arriving Slowly

Santa Eulàlia de Ronçana does not have a railway station. Most visitors arrive by car from other towns in the Vallès. Parking is usually straightforward in streets away from the centre, though during certain festivals the flow of people increases noticeably.

In winter, sturdy footwear is advisable. After several days of rain the rieras swell and some paths remain muddy. Summer presents the opposite challenge. Heat builds early, and by mid-morning stretches without shade feel intense.

Accommodation within the municipality is low-key: casas de pagès, family-run guesthouses, and long-established bars where coffee is served in ceramic cups. Conversations tend to move more slowly than in the city. The atmosphere is neither showy nor curated for tourism. Instead, it reflects the dispersed structure of the place itself, a municipality shaped by fields, watercourses and clusters of houses rather than a single focal point.

From the higher paths towards Corró d’Amunt, the valley can look almost still. Yet the details reveal constant movement: water running after rain, festival chairs unfolding in the church square, smoke rising from chimneys on cold mornings. Santa Eulàlia de Ronçana unfolds in fragments, best understood by walking its rieras, pausing by its masías, and allowing the landscape of the Vallès to set the pace.