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about Chóvar
Municipality tucked into the Sierra de Espadán, ringed by cork oaks; noted for its reservoir and hiking trails in lush green surroundings.
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A Village Shaped by the Hills
Chóvar is built on the slope. You notice it immediately in the short, steep streets and the way the houses follow the curve of the land. With just over three hundred inhabitants, the village has always been linked to the Sierra de Espadán, which rises directly behind it. The geography isn't a setting here; it's the reason for the layout.
Moving through Chóvar means walking on an incline. Distances feel longer than they are, and the views open up suddenly towards the Alto Palancia valley. The place works on a vertical axis, a practical response to a mountainside.
The Church and the Old Centre
The parish church of the Purísima Concepción sits at the centre. It’s a simple 18th-century construction of local stone, without grand ornament. Its importance is topographic: the plaza acts as a kind of belvedere, organising the village around it and framing a view of the valley below.
The surrounding streets show the popular architecture of this part of Castellón. You see stone walls, wide doorways made for farm use, and iron balconies. Many houses have been restored, but the structure speaks of a life tied to dryland farming and the forest. The materials—stone, timber, clay tile—come from here.
This is cork oak country. The Sierra de Espadán is one of the few places in eastern Spain where they grow naturally. From certain points in the village, you can see the reddish sandstone outcrops typical of these mountains, contrasting with the green of the woods.
Paths into the Sierra
People come to Chóvar to walk. Several senderos start at the village edge, connecting to the wider network of the natural park. Some trails pass through pine forests and past old agricultural terraces, now abandoned. Others climb higher where the terrain becomes stonier and more exposed.
The character of the walk changes with altitude. Lower paths feel sheltered, under tree cover. As you climb, the scale of the landscape reveals itself—a broad basin of ridges and valleys. You can plan a short loop or a full-day hike from the same starting point.
In summer, the heat is considerable. Even shaded sections give way to open track, and carrying water is necessary. Autumn brings a different activity: mushroom foraging in the pinewoods. It’s a local practice, though now often guided by regulations to protect the ecosystem.
A Practical Rhythm
The food here is from the interior. Dishes are hearty, based on seasonal produce, game, and home-curing traditions. Outside of weekends or festival dates, options in the village are limited; it’s wise to check what’s open if you plan to eat there.
At night, the lack of light pollution becomes obvious. A short walk from the church square is enough to see a darker sky. In December, the fiesta for the Purísima Concepción draws former residents back. The larger summer fiestas in August change the tempo for a few days, with a programme of events that still feels local.
Many traditions are domestic, preserved in family kitchens during Easter or autumn, rather than as public spectacle.
Getting to Chóvar
The drive from Castellón de la Plana takes you inland on the CV-25, turning onto local roads that climb into the sierra. The last stretch has bends and a steady gain in elevation, typical of access to these villages.
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for walking. Summer temperatures are high, though evenings in the mountains are cooler. If you come by car at the weekend, allow time to find a place to park; space in the centre is scarce.
