Pego

The scent hits first. Not sea salt, not pine, but orange blossom carried on warm air from groves that stretch to the horizon. Pego sits just 15 kilometres inland from the Costa Blanca, yet feels worlds away from the high-rise resorts of nearby Denia and Oliva. At 82 metres above sea level, this agricultural town of 10,485 inhabitants has managed to resist the coastal development that swallowed much of the region, maintaining instead a working landscape of citrus orchards, vegetable plots and rice paddies that generate real income rather than postcard views.

The Church Square and Its Stories

The Asunción Church's bell tower rises above a maze of narrow streets where medieval walls meet modern shopfronts. Built between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, the Gothic structure dominates the compact historic centre, though it's hardly cathedral-scale. Inside, the retablos reward those who linger longer than it takes to snap a photo. The neighbouring Palau Ducal tells a different story – not of ecclesiastical power but of feudal authority. What remains today is more architectural palimpsest than palace, with centuries of modifications visible in stone and brickwork. The Archaeological Museum, tucked away on a side street, displays Iberian and Roman artefacts that place Pego firmly on ancient trade routes, though you'll see it all in under an hour.

The real museum lies outside town limits. The Marjal de Pego-Oliva Natural Park spreads across 1,250 hectares of wetlands where rice farmers work alongside nature reserve managers. This isn't wilderness – it's a managed landscape where traditional agriculture and biodiversity coexist. Walking trails weave between irrigation channels, and bird hides overlook pools where purple herons feed alongside egrets. Spring brings the best birdwatching, though winter floods can make some paths impassable. Bring waterproof footwear and expect mud.

Walking Through the Harvest

Pego's surrounding landscape rewards those who explore on foot or bicycle. The Camí del Pouet trail follows ancient irrigation routes to natural springs that have fed local agriculture for centuries. It's moderate walking – not mountain hiking, but not a gentle stroll either. The three-hour circuit climbs through orange groves before descending to the flood plain, offering views across the Marina Alta region. Spring walkers navigate paths carpeted with fallen blossom; autumn brings the sharp-sweet smell of fermenting oranges beneath the trees.

Cyclists favour the Ruta de les Ermites, connecting Pego with neighbouring villages via quiet country lanes. The 35-kilometre loop passes six small chapels, each marking what were once isolated farming communities. Spring and autumn offer ideal conditions – summer heat makes midday cycling unpleasant, while winter can bring heavy showers that turn dirt tracks to mud. Bike hire is available from CicloPego on Calle Sant Antoni, though options are limited – perhaps three or four decent hybrids and a couple of mountain bikes. Book ahead, especially during festival periods.

Rice, Oranges and Market Day

Thursday morning transforms Plaça del Mercat as local producers set up stalls beneath the modern market hall's concrete canopy. This isn't a tourist-oriented affair –expect to queue behind residents buying week's worth of vegetables, rice sold by the kilo from burlap sacks, and oranges so fresh the stems still bear green leaves. The region's rice, grown in the marshlands, forms the base of local cuisine. Restaurant choices are limited but authentic. Casa Cha on Calle Major serves proper arroz al forn – baked rice with local vegetables and pork – for €12, though they'll only cook it for two or more people. La Tasca del Pego does excellent rice dishes too, but closes on Tuesdays and doesn't take bookings, meaning queues form by 8:30pm.

Don't expect international cuisine or vegetarian restaurants. This is farming country where meat and rice dominate menus. The citrus influence appears in desserts – orange flan, lemon tart, and marmalades sold by village women from card tables during festival periods. Local wine comes from cooperatives rather than boutique bodegas; it's drinkable, cheap, and served cold even in winter.

Fireworks and Fallas

Pego's festival calendar reveals a town that takes celebration seriously. March brings Fallas, when neighbourhood committees construct satirical sculptures that tower above medieval streets before burning them to ash and smoke. The scale impresses – not Valencian-city huge, but substantial enough to close streets and generate serious heat when the fires start. Daily mascletàs (coordinated firecracker displays) begin at 2pm sharp; the noise rattles windows across town.

May's patronal fiestas honour the Virgen de los Desamparados with processions where brass bands compete for volume and locals dress in regional costume. August's Moros y Cristianos transforms streets into battlegrounds of percussion and gunpowder. For four days, costumed groups parade through town, firing muskets loaded with blanks. The noise is extraordinary – ear protection recommended, especially during the Saturday morning entrada when several hundred participants march in formation. Accommodation books out months ahead; visiting during festivals requires planning and tolerance for sleepless nights.

Practicalities Without the Package

Pego works as a base for exploring northern Costa Blanca without coastal prices. The Tuesday morning market offers better value than coastal tourist markets, while village bars charge €1.50 for coffee versus €3 on the beachfront. Accommodation options remain limited – perhaps a dozen rental apartments and two small hotels. The three-star Hotel Lo Monte on the outskirts has 28 rooms and a pool, but you'll need a car. Central apartments through local agencies offer better access to restaurants and bars, though weekend rates jump during festivals.

Public transport connects Pego with Valencia (two hours via Gandia) and Alicante (similar via Denia), but services are infrequent. A car proves essential for reaching beaches – Oliva's vast sandy stretch lies 15 minutes away, while Denia's marina and castle require 25 minutes' drive. Parking in Pego's centre is manageable except during festivals when streets close and residents claim every available space.

Summer heat can be oppressive – temperatures regularly exceed 35°C in July and August, when the town empties as locals head to coastal second homes. Winter brings occasional flooding when the marshlands overflow, though this creates spectacular birdwatching conditions. Spring and autumn offer the best balance: warm days, cool nights, and agricultural landscapes at their most productive.

Pego doesn't deliver instant gratification. There's no single must-see sight, no Instagram-famous viewpoint. Instead, it offers the slower rewards of agricultural Spain: the rhythm of market days, the changing colours of citrus groves through seasons, the way locals greet neighbours in the street. Come for three days and you might wonder why you bothered. Stay for a week and you'll understand why some British visitors have been wintering here for decades, learning Spanish from market traders and joining local walking groups. The town reveals itself gradually, like the slow ripening of the oranges that define both its landscape and its economy.