Teulada

Start in Teulada, end up in Moraira

Teulada is two places. The town sits inland, on a hill. The coast and the beaches are down in Moraira, seven kilometres away. You drive between them. In summer, you sit in traffic between them.

Parking in Moraira is a problem from late morning onwards. Teulada is quieter, even on weekends. A lot of people sleep in the town and use it as a base, driving down to the sea for a few hours.

A fortress paid for by the town

The Iglesia-Fortaleza de Santa Catalina dominates Teulada. It looks too big for the place. Locals paid for its construction, which started in 1562 and dragged on for decades.

That fact explains how it looks. The walls are thick, the decoration is spare. It was built for defence first; pirate raids were common here. The hexagonal bell tower came later.

Inside, it’s dim and quiet. The walls are several metres thick. They keep everything out – light, noise, heat.

The coast at Moraira

Moraira was a jetty for shipping moscatel wine. An 18th-century watchtower castle was built by the beach. It’s still there, small and restored. You see it in ten minutes.

Now the harbour fills with leisure boats, not fishing smacks.

The main beach is Platja de l’Ampolla. It’s sandy, shallow and packed in July and August. Finding a spot can be hard work.

Most other coves have pebbles. El Portet is the postcard view: a sheltered bay with white houses on the slope behind it. The water stays calm if there's no easterly wind.

Outside summer, the promenade empties out.

What grows here

Moscatel vine terraces still exist around Teulada, squeezed between roads and urbanisations. They don't dominate like before, but they haven't vanished.

The local drink is mistela, a sweet wine from those grapes served cold or over ice Autumn sees small grape harvest festivals.They feel local not touristic

Look for coca amb tonyina in bakeries – a thin flatbread with tuna tomato and pine nuts Festivals might have bunyols de dacsa maize fritters A typical lunch dish is arroz amb naps i costella rice with turnip and pork ribs

Where to walk

The Cap d'Or path starts near El Portet It's short about two kilometres return You climb to an old watchtower The view north along the coast is clear on good days

Inland near Teulada Font Santa is a spring reached by farm tracks Tradition says San Vicente Ferrer made it appear in the 1400s

For something flat walk the coastal path between Moraira and El Portet It follows the sea No hills Good for an evening stroll

Plan around parking

Use Teulada as your base Parking is easier Rooms often cost less than by the sea You drive down when you want

Go to Moraira early By midday traffic builds and beach space shrinks Buy mistela or local products back in Teulada Shops there have better prices than seafront places