Onda

The morning mist lifts from 194 metres above sea level, revealing a patchwork of orange groves stretching towards the Mediterranean. From the castle walls, the view encompasses not just agricultural bounty but centuries of strategic positioning. This is Onda, a working town of 25,000 souls where medieval fortifications overlook one of Spain's most productive citrus regions, and where the phrase "inland Valencia" actually means something beyond marketing copy.

The Castle That Isn't Picture-Perfect

The Castillo de Onda rewards those who climb its hill, though calling it a castle stretches the imagination. What remains are substantial walls, towers in various states of repair, and the skeletal outlines of what once dominated this landscape. British visitors expecting Warwick-style perfection will be disappointed. Those prepared for a ruin with authentic wear will find the €3 entry fee (when the kiosk is staffed) represents decent value.

The structure's Moorish origins show in the layout—multiple levels following natural contours, defensive positions that make sense once you understand the terrain. Christian reconquest additions blend with earlier work, creating a timeline in stone that's readable if you know what to look for. The so-called "Castle of 300 Towers" never actually had that many, but the exaggeration speaks to local pride in what their ancestors built.

Parking exists closer than initial appearances suggest. Follow signs past the obvious tourist entrance to a smaller car park near the upper walls. The saved climb matters on summer afternoons when temperatures regularly exceed 35°C.

Churches and Ceramics: The Urban Core

Downhill, the town centre reveals itself gradually. The Iglesia de la Asunción's Gothic bones support later Baroque additions, its bell tower providing an alternative viewpoint for those who find castle climbs too strenuous. Inside, the usual gold leaf and painted ceilings compete for attention with genuinely interesting medieval stonework.

The Iglesia del Salvador sits lower in the town, its Gothic proportions suggesting Onda's medieval importance exceeded its current modest size. Both churches close for siesta—typically 1pm to 4pm—which catches out British visitors accustomed to all-day opening hours.

Between these religious landmarks, the Museo de Cerámica occupies a renovated townhouse. Onda's pottery tradition predates the Romans but found its medieval expression in glazed tiles and storage jars. The collection traces development from utilitarian Islamic pottery through Christian-era decorative work to contemporary pieces. It's small—two floors, perhaps forty minutes for thorough examination—but admission is free and the English translations actually make sense.

Walking Through Orange Country

The Sierra de Espadán provides Onda's western backdrop, its limestone ridges supporting pine and cork oak forests that offer genuine wilderness within walking distance of town. The contrast proves striking: cultivated groves giving way to Mediterranean maquis within metres.

Several marked trails start from the urban edge. The route towards Artana follows an ancient path through agricultural land before climbing into proper mountain terrain. Six kilometres of gentle ascent leads to viewpoints across the entire Plana Baixa. Spring brings wildflowers and temperatures perfect for walking; summer demands early starts and substantial water.

The barranco de la Pegunta offers shorter walks through narrow limestone gorges. Water flows seasonally—winter and spring see streams, summer leaves dry riverbeds. The geology impresses regardless: twisted strata showing millions of years of compression, caves carved by water that's since found easier routes.

Eating and Drinking: Limited Choices, Authentic Results

Onda's restaurant scene totals 84 establishments—tiny by British standards, though sufficient for a town this size. Most serve traditional Valencian cooking at prices that seem like misprints to anyone fresh from Benidorm.

The local speciality is olla ondense, a hearty stew combining pork, vegetables and locally grown chickpeas. Arroz al horno—oven-baked rice with pork ribs and morcilla—appears on every menu. Orange-based desserts reflect the surrounding agriculture; the fruit appears in everything from flan to ice cream.

Meal times remain resolutely Spanish. Kitchens close at 4pm and don't reopen until 8:30pm. British stomachs rumbling at 6pm find only tapas bars serving drinks and small plates. Planning matters—restaurants fill quickly during weekend lunch hours, less so for evening meals.

When to Visit: Timing Matters

March brings Fallas, Valencia's fire festival translated to town scale. The event proves manageable compared to Valencia city's chaos—bonfires burn in the main square rather than closing entire districts. May's patronal festivals involve processions and concerts that temporarily double the population. August's summer fiestas feature outdoor concerts and bull-running events that divide opinion among British visitors.

Spring and autumn provide ideal visiting conditions. Temperatures hover around 22°C, orange blossom scents the air, and accommodation prices remain reasonable. Summer heat proves intense—mid-July through August sees daily highs above 35°C, making castle climbs and hiking distinctly unpleasant.

Winter brings different challenges. Nights drop to 5°C, days might reach 15°C. Many restaurants reduce hours, some accommodation closes entirely. The castle remains open but staffing becomes irregular. On clear winter days, visibility extends for miles across the coastal plain; the Mediterranean glimmers on the horizon, 25 kilometres distant.

Practical Realities

Onda sits 65 kilometres north of Valencia, 25 kilometres inland from the coast at Burriana. Car hire provides the most flexible access—public transport exists but requires patience and Spanish language skills. The town lacks the infrastructure of coastal resorts; this represents part of its appeal while requiring realistic expectations.

Accommodation options remain limited. A handful of guesthouses and one three-star hotel serve the town. Booking ahead matters during festivals, less so at other times. Prices reflect inland location rather than coastal premiums—expect €60-80 per night rather than Costa Blanca rates.

The town works. Industry—primarily ceramics—employs locals who live in apartment blocks that architectural purists might criticise. This economic reality prevents Onda becoming a museum piece. The castle might be ruined, the churches need restoration work, the museum could expand. Yet the place functions, grows oranges, makes tiles, and welcomes visitors without depending on them.

Early morning in the main square, elderly men argue over coffee while the day's bread emerges from bakeries. The scene repeats across inland Spain, but here the backdrop includes castle walls and the scent of orange blossom. It's enough.