Monforte de Lemos

The bells of the Colegio de los Escolapios ring out in the early morning, their echo rolling down the slope towards the river Cabe. From a table in the square, with the first coffee of the day still steaming, the light begins to move across the roof tiles of the monastery and wake the town one stone at a time. Tourism in Monforte de Lemos often starts like this: a metallic rhythm marking the hour, and a soft golden glow climbing the hillside of Monte de San Vicente.

The hill that shaped the town

The climb up to the Pozo de San Vicente is not especially long, but it demands a bit of effort. It begins gently beside the town hall, then quickly turns into a steep flight of steps that slows the pace.

At the top stands the Monasterio de San Vicente del Pino. Its Renaissance church carries the pale grey tone typical of Galician stone, weathered by centuries of rain and damp air. A few steps away rises the Torre del Homenaje, a solid, severe structure with thick walls that point to an earlier time, when a castle occupied this same high ground.

Part of the complex now operates as a parador, so access to certain areas depends on how things are organised at any given moment. If the cloister door happens to be open, it is worth stepping inside briefly. Even in summer, the stone floor holds a trace of moisture, and the air often carries the scent of old wood and wax.

From the edge of the hill, the shape of the surrounding landscape becomes clear. The valley of the Cabe stretches out wide below, with small vegetable plots, clusters of rooftops and occasional strips of vineyard climbing the nearby slopes.

The Colegio de los Escolapios

The Colegio de Nuestra Señora de la Antigua makes an impression even before passing through its gates. Its Herrerian façade, defined by straight lines, carved stone crests and strong symmetry, recalls the style of El Escorial, though here the surface often shows marks of moss and damp.

The building dates back to the late sixteenth century and was founded on the initiative of Cardinal Rodrigo de Castro. Over time, it became one of the best-known educational centres in Galicia.

Inside, the church shifts in atmosphere depending on the hour. By mid-morning, light enters from the high windows at an angle, casting pale shapes across the floor. The main altarpiece is large and dark, layered with gold that catches and reflects the light when it reaches it. It rewards a slow visit. Frescoes decorate the vaults, and small details in the side chapels can easily be missed if the pace is too quick.

Narrow streets and Jewish memory

Walking down from the hill along the Ronda del Carmen leads into a more everyday version of Monforte. The streets grow narrower, the houses press closer together, and at certain times of day the air carries the smell of firewood or broth drifting out of half-open windows.

This part of the old town still preserves traces of its former Jewish community. There are no large signs explaining the history, yet there are clues: stone doorways with carved symbols and a network of tight, winding streets that echo the layout of the medieval quarter that once stood here.

Around midday, the atmosphere shifts. Conversations in Galician fill the streets, plates arrive at tables giving off steam, and glasses of mencía wine from the Ribeira Sacra appear. In winter, botelo is easy to find, a traditional local sausage usually served boiled with potatoes and grelos, a leafy green common in Galicia. It is a hearty dish, the kind that suits a morning spent climbing uphill streets.

When it makes sense to visit

Monforte changes noticeably with the seasons, and the experience can feel quite different depending on the time of year.

In mid-August, the town celebrates the fiestas of the Virgen de Montserrat. The centre fills with music, outdoor festivities and people returning for a few days. The atmosphere lasts well into the night, and it becomes harder to find space near the historic centre.

For a quieter visit, June often works well. The days are long, the heat has not yet become intense, and the rhythm of the town feels more relaxed. Autumn brings a different scent into the air: grape must and the activity of the harvest in the wineries of the Ribeira Sacra.

Winter introduces another mood entirely. Many mornings, fog rises from the river Cabe and lingers along the slope below the monastery. There is less movement in the streets and some shutters remain closed, yet the town takes on a particular stillness that forms part of its character.

For a short trip beyond the urban centre, a drive of around half an hour to the south leads to the area of Doade. From there, boats set out along the Sil canyon, travelling between steep slate walls and vineyards planted on striking terraces.

Returning afterwards to Monforte, with the tower once again visible at the top of the hill, it becomes clear why this spot was chosen centuries ago to watch over the valley. From up there, the arrival of the day is visible much earlier than down by the river.