Turtzioz (Trucíos)

Turtzioz is the kind of place you drive through on the way to somewhere else, and then you think, "Wait, what was that?" You turn around. There's no grand entrance, just a main road that becomes a village street for a few hundred meters, lined with stone caseríos that look like they’ve been there since forever. That’s Turtzioz, or Trucíos—a village in Las Encartaciones where you park the car and the only plan is to walk.

This isn't a checklist destination. With about five hundred people, it’s more of a quiet anchor in a green valley. The appeal is in the rhythm, not the sights. You notice the vegetable gardens beside houses, the iron balconies, and how someone will nod a greeting even if they’ve never seen you before.

The heart of things: church, frontón, and not much else

Forget a grand plaza. The centre of Turtzioz is basically a stretch of road with the essentials: the town hall, the Iglesia de San Juan Evangelista, and a frontón court. The church is plain stone, no frills. It doesn't wow you; it just feels like it belongs.

The real social hub is the frontón. It's always active. Maybe there's a casual pelota match, maybe some kids are practicing shots against the wall. It's not put on for show. If you sit on one of the benches for ten minutes, you'll get a commentary from a local leaning on the fence. It’s that type of place.

Walking out into the valley

The best thing you can do here is head out on foot. Don't look for fancy signposted trails—you follow farm tracks and local paths that lead past meadows and grazing sheep. The climbs are gentle. After fifteen minutes, you're above the village looking at scattered farmhouses across the hills.

That’s the real character of this area: homes spread out across the land, not bunched together. Turtzioz feels like the communal meeting point for all these scattered farms. A walk gives you that sense of scale.

The roads in and out

You'll likely arrive by car. The roads connecting Turtzioz to Balmaseda or Karrantza are part of the visit—winding lanes through soft hills and pastures. It’s not dramatic mountain scenery; it’s calm and green. You'll pass isolated caseríos and wonder who lives there and how quiet their evenings must be.

A practical note on timing

Come when you feel like a walk without sweating buckets or getting soaked. Spring and autumn are reliable for that. Summers are mild enough, and you might catch an evening game at the frontón. In winter or after rain, some paths get muddy—so wear shoes that can handle a bit of dirt.

So, is it worth stopping?

Look, Turtzioz won't fill your Instagram with iconic shots. But if you're crossing Las Encartaciones and need a break from driving, it's a honest pause. Park near the frontón, stroll through the few streets, pick a path and walk until you feel like turning back.

An hour here gives you everything it has to offer: quiet valley views, stone houses with red tile roofs, and the sound of a pelota ball hitting a wall in the distance. Sometimes that’s exactly what you need between one destination and the next