Vitoria-Gasteiz

At 525 metres above sea level, the air in Vitoria-Gasteiz carries a crispness that surprises visitors arriving from Bilbao's humid estuary or San Sebastián's coastal breeze. The capital of Basque Country sits on a plateau where winter mornings bite harder than coastal neighbours, and summer evenings stretch into pleasantly cool nights. This altitude shapes everything: the quality of light that local photographers rave about, the excellent txakoli wine that stays refreshingly acidic, and the unhurried pace that makes this city feel more like an oversized village.

The Almond-Shaped Heart

The medieval quarter folds itself into an almond-shaped tangle of streets that spill downhill from Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. Unlike the pristine old towns of nearby tourist magnets, Vitoria's Casco Viejo shows its working skin. Laundry flaps from wrought-iron balconies. Elderly residents shuffle to corner shops for morning papers. The stone walls bear scratches from delivery trolleys and centuries of everyday use.

Calle Correría, Calle Zapatería and Calle Herrería retain their medieval guild names, though today's businesses sell everything from mobile phones to craft beer. The streets climb steeply enough to make calf muscles notice, but distances remain mercifully short. Ten minutes of uphill walking brings you to the Gothic doorway of Santa María Cathedral, where English-language tours book up fast despite running several times daily. The "Abierto por Obras" programme lets visitors duck under scaffolding and see restoration work in progress – a refreshing change from polished heritage sites where authenticity hides behind velvet ropes.

Between Two Cathedrals

Santa María, known locally as the "Old Cathedral," stands in deliberate contrast to its 19th-century neo-Gothic sibling across town. Where the newer cathedral impresses with soaring spires and ornate stonework, Santa María reveals itself slowly. Inside, exposed brickwork shows construction methods rarely visible in completed churches. The guide points out masons' marks scratched into stone during the 13th century, while discussing how Ken Follett's "Pillars of the Earth" drew inspiration from this very building. Book online ahead – English tours fill quickly, especially during weekend breaks.

The plaza connecting old and new quarters serves as the city's living room. Students sprawl on cathedral steps sharing bottles of txakoli. Office workers eat sandwiches on benches facing the Battle of Vitoria monument. On Saturdays, the square hosts a small market where local honey and cheese change hands alongside second-hand books and vintage records.

Pintxos Without the Posturing

Calle Cuchillería, nicknamed "La Kutxi" by locals, offers pintxos culture without San Sebastián's price tags or queue-jostling crowds. Bars here serve proper portions rather than Instagram-friendly miniatures. At Saborro, the Gilda – that classic anchovy, olive and pepper skewer named after Rita Hayworth's character – converts even anchovy-sceptics. The combination of salty fish, sharp guindilla pepper and briny olive creates something greater than its parts.

Txakoli flows freely, poured from height into wide glasses to create its signature gentle fizz. This local white wine stays crisp thanks to the region's cooler climate and higher altitude. Most bars offer menú del día for €12-15 during weekday lunches – three courses with wine included, making it an affordable introduction to Basque flavours. Sunday evenings tell a different story: most pintxo bars shut early, leaving visitors to choose between hotel restaurants or supermarket picnics. Plan accordingly.

The Green Belt That Actually Works

Vitoria's Anillo Verde isn't marketing fluff. Within ten minutes' walk from any central point, tarmac gives way to proper green space. The Salburua wetlands attract birdwatchers who previously headed to Doñana or the Ebro Delta. Herons stalk through reeds while, if you're patient and quiet, deer occasionally emerge from tree cover. Early mornings work best for wildlife spotting, though the area never feels crowded even at weekends.

The Zadorra river path provides flatter walking for those who've overdone the pintxos. Cyclists share wide paths with joggers and parents pushing buggies. Unlike many Spanish cities where green spaces feel like afterthoughts, Vitoria planned its parks first and buildings second. The result feels organic rather than manufactured.

Art Underground and Overhead

Beneath Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, the Bibat complex houses two excellent museums that punch above their weight. The Archaeology Museum traces Basque history from prehistoric cave dwellings to Roman settlements, while the Playing Card Museum celebrates the region's cardboard manufacturing heritage. Both offer free entry, a pleasant surprise after Bilbao's €16 Guggenheim tickets.

Above ground, eighteen massive murals transform building sides into an outdoor gallery. The official walking route takes ninety minutes to complete, though art-hunters often linger longer. Some pieces reference Basque culture directly – one shows traditional pelota players rendered in photorealistic style. Others tackle universal themes: migration, memory, climate change. Pick up the free map from the tourist office on Plaza de España, where staff stamp passports with a commemorative "Green Capital" mark that delights younger visitors.

When to Visit, When to Avoid

Late May through June offers ideal conditions: warm days, cool nights, and plazas empty enough to find tables easily. September works equally well, with added bonus of harvest season menus featuring wild mushrooms and game. August's Virgen Blanca festival transforms the city completely. The famous Celedón figure descends from San Miguel church on August 4th, marking five days of concerts, street theatre and general mayhem. Accommodation prices double, bars overflow onto streets, and that relaxed local atmosphere disappears under tourist crowds. Avoid unless you've booked specifically for the fiesta.

Winter brings proper cold – temperatures regularly drop below freezing from December through February. The upside? Empty museums, cosy bars where locals have time to chat, and occasional snow that makes medieval rooftops photogenic. Summer heat waves feel less brutal than southern Spain, but July and August afternoons still hit 35°C. The altitude means temperatures plummet after sunset, so pack layers whatever the season.

Practicalities for Planners

Driving makes sense for weekend breaks from Bilbao airport (one hour north) or Santander ferry port (ninety minutes west). Underground car parks beneath Plaza de España and Virgen Blanca offer free parking Saturday afternoons and all day Sunday – perfect timing for British ferry arrivals. The train station sits twenty minutes' walk from the old town, with regular connections to Madrid and Barcelona that take under five hours.

Accommodation clusters around three areas: boutique hotels in converted palaces within the medieval quarter, modern business hotels near the train station, and apartment rentals in the 19th-century expansion. Prices run roughly thirty percent cheaper than San Sebastián equivalents, though weekend rates jump when festivals or football matches fill the city.

Vitoria-Gasteiz won't bowl you over with postcard perfection. Instead, it reveals itself slowly: through conversations with bar owners who remember your pintxo preferences, through parks where morning joggers nod recognition, through museums free enough to visit repeatedly. It's a city that rewards those who prefer depth over dazzle, where Basque culture feels lived-in rather than performed. Come with time to wander rather than a checklist to complete, and this high-plateau capital might just become your favourite Spanish discovery.