Villabuena de Álava/Eskuernaga

A village shaped by vineyards

Tourism in Villabuena de Álava, also known as Eskuernaga, makes more sense when you begin with the land around it. This small municipality in Rioja Alavesa is almost encircled by vineyards, and that relationship with wine goes back centuries. It has influenced both the local economy and the physical layout of the village itself.

Beneath many of the houses lie calados, underground cellars carved directly into the rock. Traditionally, these spaces were used to store wine in stable conditions long before modern techniques existed. Above ground, the village keeps a compact layout of short streets and stone houses, all closely tied to that agricultural activity.

The structure of Villabuena has not changed dramatically over time. The village still revolves, to a large extent, around the vineyard, and that continuity is easy to notice when walking through its streets.

Stone, streets and the church of San Andrés

At the centre of the village stands the parish church of San Andrés. The main structure dates from the 16th century, with later alterations during the Baroque period. Its tower rises above the rooftops and is visible both from within the village and from the vineyard paths that approach it.

Inside, the church is restrained. Rather than an accumulation of decoration, what stands out is how the building reflects the gradual adaptation of a parish church to the needs of a small community over time.

The rest of the historic centre unfolds across just a few streets. As you move through them, details begin to emerge: carefully carved stone doorways, coats of arms on older façades, and wooden eaves that still shelter entrances. In several spots, you can identify access points to the calados, sometimes through small doors or air vents that hint at the underground network beneath the village.

Underground cellars and everyday wine culture

One of the most distinctive features of Villabuena is this network of calados beneath the houses. Their naturally stable temperature made it possible to preserve wine throughout the year without modern systems.

Many of these spaces remain in use today, often linked to family-run wineries or small-scale wine projects. Some can be visited with prior arrangement, although they are not all regularly open. Rather than a formal tourist attraction, they are part of the village’s daily life.

Wine culture is not confined to what lies below ground. Just a few minutes outside the centre, the landscape opens into orderly vineyard plots stretching towards the Sierra de Cantabria. The agricultural tracks that leave the village, unpaved paths used by tractors and trailers, make it possible to walk among the vines and get a clearer sense of the scale of the territory.

From village lanes to open vineyard paths

The village itself can be explored at a relaxed pace in about an hour. Distances are short, and much of what catches the eye is found by simply looking up: stonework, coats of arms, and small architectural details.

Several exits from the village lead directly onto paths that enter the vineyards. Within twenty to thirty minutes on foot, the built environment fades away, leaving cultivated land stretching out towards the horizon, with the Sierra de Cantabria closing the view to the north. These are straightforward walks, though it is worth remembering they are still working agricultural routes.

The surrounding secondary roads are also used by those exploring the area by bicycle, always sharing space with agricultural traffic.

Planning your time and practical notes

Villabuena does not require a full day to grasp its character. A walk through the centre, a visit to the church, and a short outing into the vineyards are usually enough to understand its setting.

For those interested in entering a calado or learning more closely about the winemaking process, it is generally necessary to arrange this in advance. Many wineries work with prior bookings and set schedules.

In practical terms, the streets in the centre are narrow. It is usually more convenient to leave the car in designated parking areas at the edge of the village and continue on foot.

During summer, the sun falls strongly on the vineyards and there is little shade outside the built-up area, so carrying water and sun protection is advisable when walking along the agricultural paths. After heavy rain, some of the dirt tracks can become muddy.