Orio

Arriving and getting your bearings

Sort the car first. Near the entrance to Orio there is usually some space, and from there it is a short walk down into town. Parking by the port is possible too, but it is limited and turns over quickly in summer. Orio has around 6,000 residents and that number feels very different once July arrives. Turn up late and you may end up circling.

The old quarter sits on the slope. Streets are narrow, with steps and short climbs, and there is no obvious grid. The houses went up when the port dictated life here and people built where they could. From below, the church of San Nicolás stands out with a fortress-like look. Inside there is a work linked to Jorge Oteiza, who was born here, even though he spent much of his life elsewhere.

The port and the beach

The port lies at the mouth of the Oria river. For centuries it was active in shipbuilding and fishing. Small boats still head out and the traineras, traditional rowing boats used in coastal regattas, are part of everyday life. On some façades in the centre you can spot reliefs of boats, marking former homes of sailors or people connected to the shipyards.

Antilla beach is on the far side of the river. Cross the bridge and walk a few minutes to reach it. It is not especially large and fills up quickly when the heat kicks in. The sand is fine, and the swell sometimes draws surfers. On summer weekends it can be hard to find space on the sand if you arrive late.

Eating in Orio

Here, grilled fish sets the tone. Besugo in season, sardines and chipirones are common. The smell of the grill drifts through the port area early in the day. There is no trick to it: fresh fish and a grill. Prices tend to match the general level along the Gipuzkoan coast.

On Thursdays there is a market in the square. Stalls usually bring vegetables from inland villages and some fish. It runs in the morning.

Climbing and walking

Behind the town rises Mount Kukuarri. The path starts near the built-up area and takes about an hour and a half at an easy pace. At the top there is a sculpture linked to Oteiza. From the summit the coastline opens out towards Zarautz and the Cantabrian Sea. For the way down, the safest option is to return by the same route, as some paths end on private land.

The Northern Way of the Camino de Santiago passes through Orio. It arrives from San Sebastián following the coast and continues towards Zarautz. Many people simply cross the town and keep walking. At the Iturriaga palace there is a small space dedicated to the route, with maps and panels.

When it changes pace

Orio can be seen in half a day. In the morning the port is calm and the old quarter is easy to walk without crowds. From midday onwards, cars start arriving from San Sebastián and Zarautz, and the beach fills quickly.

In summer there are trainera regattas on some weekends and the atmosphere shifts noticeably. The town’s festivals also take place in August, with stalls along the port and plenty of noise late into the night.

If you want to see it with a bit more breathing room, come early on a weekday. A walk through the old quarter, the market if it happens to be Thursday, then the beach. As it starts to fill up, many people carry on to Zarautz, where the seafront is longer and parking tends to be a little easier.