Huéscar

At eight in the morning, when the sun has yet to warm the walls of the Colegiata, the bells ring out with a hollow echo that drifts across the plain. From the square, the toasted stone of Santa María seems to take in the light slowly, as if holding on to the glow of entire centuries. At that hour, movement is scarce. Perhaps a dog crossing the street, the smell of fresh bread from a nearby oven, and the cool air that slips down from the Sierra de la Sagra. This is how tourism in Huéscar often begins, before the town has fully woken.

Huéscar does not rely on a staged welcome. It meets visitors with wind. A dry breeze that carries hints of rosemary and turned earth, slipping through the collar and making you look up towards its near thousand-metre altitude, which helps explain why the sky feels so wide here. The town works a little like a balcony over the northern edge of the province. Around it stretch rolling cereal fields, distant mountain ranges and old routes that once linked this place with Murcia and La Mancha.

A peace agreement that came late

Huéscar is sometimes referred to as the “City of Peace”. The reason sits somewhere between formal history and anecdote. During the Peninsular War, the town declared war on Denmark, which at the time was allied with France. The conflict was then forgotten for generations, until in the early 1980s a local researcher revisited old documents and realised that no peace had ever been signed. The agreement was finally formalised with a small institutional ceremony.

At the heart of the town stands the Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, built between the 16th and 18th centuries. From the outside, it appears solid and almost austere. Inside, the atmosphere shifts. Light filters in from above, bouncing off the golden stone and settling in patches across the floor. The main altarpiece is Baroque and richly detailed, the kind that draws the eye upward for a few moments just to take in the sheer number of figures and decorative elements.

Food shaped by cold weather

The cooking in Huéscar is closely tied to both climate and landscape. The surrounding countryside and the colder months have left a clear mark on what appears on the table. Segureño lamb is a regular feature in local menus, usually roasted or stewed with wild herbs such as thyme or rosemary.

In winter, it is still possible to find gachas de almendra. This is a thick dessert with aromas of aniseed and cinnamon, typically served warm. It is simple in appearance, but filling and closely linked to the season.

During the August fair, traditional sweets also make an appearance. These are made with lard and ground almonds. Their presentation is not elaborate. They are straightforward, homemade-looking pieces that tend to crumble easily at the touch.

Walking the Canal de Carlos III

On the outskirts of Huéscar begins the route known as the Canal de Carlos III. It is linked to an old hydraulic project that was never completed. The walk is around three kilometres long and passes through scrubland, stone and the remains of earlier construction works.

At the end of the route stands the Puente de las Ánimas. It is a long stone structure with more than a dozen arches crossing a ravine. The setting feels open and quiet, shaped by the same dry landscape that defines much of the area.

The path is usually signposted, and it is common to see local residents walking there at weekends. From certain points, the outline of the Sagra rises clearly to the north. It is also not unusual to spot a vulture gliding low once the air begins to warm.

For those looking to extend the day, there are longer routes heading towards the mountains. Full ascents require several hours of walking and a degree of preparation, particularly in summer when the sun can be intense in more exposed areas.

When to visit Huéscar

October is often a good time to explore Huéscar at a slower pace. The air becomes clearer after the summer, nights turn cooler, and the fields begin to shift in colour.

August offers a very different atmosphere. The town’s fair takes place then, bringing music, crowds and activity that continues late into the evening. Anyone seeking a quieter experience may prefer to avoid those days.

During Holy Week, there is also a long-standing tradition of a living Via Crucis. This reenactment begins at the Colegiata and moves through several sloping streets. It lasts for quite some time, and temperatures tend to drop after sunset, so warmer clothing is worth considering if following the full route.